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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
i can't believe i posted this... i was such a newb with the gtp at the time. Im doing lots of reading and research these days, now that i have a modded one lol. i believe it was a 2x4, not a 4x4. the 2x4 flipped over on the weak side and snapped. maybee i was drunk. I have a engine hoist now lol
LOL, probably 2x4. Did you just buy a modded car?
yea, i bought one in december all the way in Ohio. drove it back to Mass. blew the stock tranny the first week i had it. finally got it rebuilt, then blew the lower end right after LOL. that is why i'm here, to learn what and what not to do. and i havnt had the money to fix it, not untill now. i hope to have her running again this weekend.
This needs a little editing. Other than that this would be the greatest for a sticky. Pictures are KEY. Im currently taking the trans out tonight, and 2morro. One picture that would be nice is where to put the 4x6 or 4x4. In my case i chose the 4x6. If anyone has any pictures on where to put the wood, send me a picture. Either that im winging it 2morro. Just dont want to crush anything important like my fenders or anything.
subd
ive seen a pic, from what i remember the 4x4 goes from the front to the top of fire wall, and then the chain wraps around the 4x4 to the engine so to suspend it in the air when you pull the trans out the bottom. so basically the engine is just hanging in the bay.
if you have a come a long and a garage, you could do the same thing by strapping it to the rafters in the garage to hold the engine in place.
Figured id throw in some pictures to help the next screwed Fuk who has to rip out there tranny. Good luck pal!
- This is how i blocked the motor up. First i fit little 1 1/2" blocks of wood to fit in between lip of fender and fender on both sides of car.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture304-1.jpg
Then placed the 4x6 directly across the supercharger casing making sure that the 4x6 clears the supercharger casing so that its not touching it at all. If it does touch then your blocks are not high enough.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture300-1.jpg
Pictures are pretty much self explanatory so im not going to explain everything. Ill show you where i place my bolts for chains and then after i placed the chains in their locations, I wedged a 3/4 inch board under chain so that it took the slack out of the chain. Motor did not budge after i dropped sub frame!
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture302-1.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture301-1.jpg
You dont have to but, i stuck vice grips on lip of fender to help hold 4x6 from sliding until it had pressure from the motor.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture303-1.jpg
Mike (aka Stapppppppppppppen) and I chatted the other night. He went across the towers, I typically put the 4x4 front to back in the middle. Overall it's all good as long as you support things well.
Is the pic where the trans is still bolted to the block, is that hole on the right side spose to be empty? Its the last pic that i am asking about?
this is the pic i am talking about, the hole to the right is empty!
Yep, no bolt there... I think it has a "dowl pin" there. May have to soak that area with WD-40 once you start prying the two apart... They can be a bugger to get out.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99GTP
Yes..that one and the front lower bolt (where the negative cable is connected) is the other dowl.
I've never had a problem getting an engine/trans to seperate. Biggest thing to remember is the trans has no support at the passenger end. Put a jack under it and you'll take all the pressure off the engine/trans pins.
Thanx for the quick responce! I am going to pull my block was just curious about that hole! I have tore it down to the bare block from due to the car over heating and cracking both heads! Should I put it all back together out of the car and then drop it back in?
bare as in pistons etc out? In that case, I'd suggest having a machine shop put the bottom end together and line bore the block etc.
No the block is together! I took the heads off and took to the machine shop, they were cracked so i had them get new ones and rebuild them! I am trying to clean everything up as I run through everything! So I figured sense I was into it this far I would pull the block and clean it up get all old gunk off of it! But I got a Head Gasket Kit too put the heads back on and replace all the other gaskets! I was wondering if I should put it all together with the block out of the car!
It's much eaiser to do it out of the car. You using ARP bolts or new stockers? I lifted a wheel of the stand and a buddy off the ground torquing stockers. ;)
Call up a good sided friend when you are torquing the heads on if you use stock bolts.
How hard is it to get the bolts out of the flex plate to the converter?
Which do you recommend? I bought stock replacements but they can go back!
Flex bolts are 18mm bolts. There's three of them and as long as the motor turns, they are easy. Turn the motor until you can get the bolt out from the inspection cover or through the hole where the starter would be.
I recommend whatever works for you. If you think you'll ever take a head off again, ARP. If no.. go stock. I like the ARP's because you torque them down in waves to 90ft lbs and your done. No worries etc. Stock bolts have degrees etc and the inner 4 are more degrees. It can be done and isn't tough etiher way.
Yea the degrees thing is something that i havent been looking forward too!! Where did you get your ARP's from? ZZP? If it is a easy 90 ft lbs then I Going that route!!