Thread: Best drill and slotted rotor.

You're right. All these people in EVERY CAR that runs drilled rotors are completely retarded.

But I will just leave this here for you

" a heat sink is a passive heat exchanger that cools a device by dissipating heat into the surrounding medium"


"A heat sink is designed to maximize its surface area in contact with the cooling medium surrounding it, such as the air."

All this being said we do not drive race cars as much as we want to believe. You nor i are going to notice anything running drilled or not and the only true benifial rotor would be to get slotted for the help with glazing and keeping the pad clean.

I personally noticed a HUGE improvement when I did my pads and rotors. BUT I will admit that might have been the Pads.

This is what R1 concepts say about their rotors... Granted it is the vender trying to sell a product but I would assume they have some kinda proof to their temp drop claims.

R1Concept's Cross-Drilled rotors helps prevent warping of the rotor by releasing heat and cooling the rotor by up to an additional 105 degrees Fahrenheit when compared to non-drilled rotors. In addition, all cross-drilled rotors are chamfered, meaning there is a slight slant at the opening of the hole. Our chamfering process reduces the chances of rotor cracks without compromising performance.

I noticed a huge improvement when going from ceramics to semi metallics(again i dont drive a racecar). Im kind of interested in your carbon metallics, I havnt looked into these.

http://www.performancefriction.com/a...rake-pads.aspx

Thats what Ive got. Maybe there is a little info on there for you. I honestly only got them because they came with the rotors when I bought them new off a local. But I dont think I will ever go back.


http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fr...iction+0699.20

You guys notice them dust more less compared to a Ceramic pad? I don't know much about pad material and such and was curious, im currently running some Monroe Ceramic pads and they dont dust at all but my brakes are really ****ty for stopping power. I was curious. I planned on getting a powerstop front and rear kit for my next brake service but if these pads are that good, I'll just get the rotors and these pads.

Im done thread jacking now but im sure this info helps OP

Sent from the Milky Way

Originally Posted by Russosaur

You guys notice them dust more less compared to a Ceramic pad? I don't know much about pad material and such and was curious, im currently running some Monroe Ceramic pads and they dont dust at all but my brakes are really ****ty for stopping power. I was curious. I planned on getting a powerstop front and rear kit for my next brake service but if these pads are that good, I'll just get the rotors and these pads.

Im done thread jacking now but im sure this info helps OP

Sent from the Milky Way

Yea i did run the monroe ceramics untill they somehow warped the hardware and caused them hit the rotor at an angle thus causing extremely bad squeeling. Not to mention braking was ****. I switched to wagner semis and they seem to be doing great.

Mine are scary ****ty right now, I can probably almost put the pedal to the floor before the wheels lockup and it feels just like they arnt stopping me lol. I need to re bleed them also I think I have some air in them.

Sent from the Milky Way

I've literally got like 40k+ on my current setup and my pads look and feel like they could go another 100k lol.

I have the power stop drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads from summitracing(same as rock auto)
had them for 4-6 months now and they are great, stopping power is awesome but its probably the ceramic pads. 3 year warranty on them also.
this is what you get.

^ this is what I bought not installed yey

Ive had those exact same powerstop rotors and pads for a couple years on both my gp's.I give them a workout alot,lol.There holding up really well.They do make a little noise when you stop hard tho.You can tell the pads are going over holes, barely noticeable,not an issue.

As others have mentioned I have never warped a cross drilled rotor. Blanks yup. So for the naysayers of cross drilled on a daily driver/auto x/ track car I'll take drilled.

I picked up a set of R1 F body drilled/slotted when I put my car together. Not positive, I believe I paired them up with a set of scorched (no break in) ceramic pads also from R1. The combo was amazing. The car would stop great, low dust, never a fade or issue pulling bone head stops from fast speeds. There were very small spider cracks around the holes, nothing that affected them at all. The rotors did not have a groove in them from the pad wear. If not for the cracks, I would have run them another 60K with another set of pads. That's right.. 60K miles on a set of pads.

Liked them so much I went with R1 again and this time decided slotted only.

If you are having that issue, I totally understand where you are coming from. I had a 97 Bonneville and upgrades aren't easy, so I warped them constantly and replaced often. Once I went W body, I put the F body calipers on. That gives you a larger rotor and two piston caliper. They work so much better IMO and combined with that drilled/slotted rotor I was mentioning, totally amazing.

Ask some of the guys on here that have visited, I put them in the car and make them abuse it.. It's all good