Thread: DRL ideal

So for us newer gp's I've been thinking of ways to completely remove DRL's. The idea I've been tossing around is to take the power wire that runs to the drivers side headlight (I'm running HID's and that's the side the relay harness connects at) and splicing into it and running it into the car and putting a manual on off switch in.

Any problem I could run into doing it this way? I am aware that it takes away the automatic headlight feature that everyone loves but I don't mind it. I don't drive much at night anyways.

Toss me your thoughts on this. I'm going to be running some other wires for two 10 inch cooling fans I'm putting on with my new tranny cooler. (Won't run them unless my temps hit 180 for the tranny temp.). So figured might as well run any other wires I need to at the same time.

Just put electrical tape over the photo sensor it let's you control the lights manually.

I have that now. But it keeps the lights on as if it were night time outside all the time.

I am wanting to put an on/off switch inline where the stock positive wire ran to the stock 9006 bulb. That positive wire is what tells the hid relay harness to turn on so if I put a manual switch inline with that wire I can control weather their on or off

Yup and I don't got a problem with that. Just wanted to see what yall thought about doing it. I'm making a small switch board to hide under my dash now with some other things so I just wanna add all the switches I need at once so I don't got to pull the wiring out again

Huh with the electrical tape just turn off the lights the drls go off with them

Originally Posted by 91parkave

Huh with the electrical tape just turn off the lights the drls go off with them

I know. That's pretty much the way I've been doing it and if my research is correct its the reason I go thru so many relays. The low voltage the drl's put out keep causing them to blow. I've been reading on it all night

Your using relays? I've been just using the ballast connected directly to the factory wires. I have no flickering no issues period been that way for a year now. IMO get rid of the harness run off the factory wiring.

I was running the factory wiring for a month and the stupid lights flickered all the time. Both night and day

if i use the stock wiring, only the passenger side light kicks on. using the relay keeps them on perfect. are you using 35W or 55W HID? i use 35W.

I used 55 watt

I keep thinking there has to be a switch somewhere that can determine when it is 5V vs 12V allowing a way to divert the DRL to some other relay powering something different, but I haven't found it yet. Of course I really have had time to look either.

I've been wanting to step up to 55w but I hardly drive at night now that my schedule switched.

Originally Posted by LeadfootCJ7

I keep thinking there has to be a switch somewhere that can determine when it is 5V vs 12V allowing a way to divert the DRL to some other relay powering something different, but I haven't found it yet. Of course I really have had time to look either.

There's an on dash sensor and the power is controls by computer

Originally Posted by 91parkave

I've been wanting to step up to 55w but I hardly drive at night now that my schedule switched.

Me either its just what I bought when I got em

Originally Posted by DirtDog

There's an on dash sensor and the power is controls by computer

My question is what sensor does this signal use? Is it a switch (open vs closed) or does it vary resistance or something like that and the computer switches the auto headlights on and off based on the resistance.

that would be the "solar sensor" in the dash, it gets dark the lights come on. cover it up, the lights come on.

To further explain DRL are pulse width modulated signals. Which when you switch to hid headlights will fry your ballast quicker either cover up your day/night sensor or use a power drop harness. You can use both if desired