Thread: DRL ideal

OK, I had some time to dig into this more yesterday. My goal is to be able to gain more control over my lights, but not nec cut out DRL all together.

One obvious answer is the use the signal for the dash lights (can grab this easily). The only potential problem is that this drops below 12v if you use the dimmer. I have never used the dimmer knob other than to see that it worked and when testing yesterday so this wouldn't be that big of a deal.

I did some searching and found that the sensor on the dash gives a ground signal rather than 12v. The wire to the BCM is light green with a black stripe and is in position 15. When using it as a ground and connecting it to my multi meter, I get full 12v (actually higher) when it gets dark and the headlights come on automatically. This ranges and changes as the sensor sees light. I saw as low as 6v yesterday, but it wasn't very bright. I imagine I could get close to 0 on a sunny day. I tried a test using this for the ground on a relay and the relay would not switch. This was a standard 50amp relay I had laying around. I am trying to figure out how get a relay that will switch (close) as the ground allows a full 12v, but open back up as this drops down to 10-11 volts. That sort of electrical thing is not something I am used to dealing with. Any insight would be appreciated. As I continue to work on this, I will post my findings.

I tested my voltage for pulsation at the headlights when DRL's were active and saw a constant full voltage no matter what test light, multimeter, etc that I used. I expected to see pulsation as many have experienced, but could not duplicate it.

Originally Posted by LeadfootCJ7

OK, I had some time to dig into this more yesterday. My goal is to be able to gain more control over my lights, but not nec cut out DRL all together.

One obvious answer is the use the signal for the dash lights (can grab this easily). The only potential problem is that this drops below 12v if you use the dimmer. I have never used the dimmer knob other than to see that it worked and when testing yesterday so this wouldn't be that big of a deal.

I did some searching and found that the sensor on the dash gives a ground signal rather than 12v. The wire to the BCM is light green with a black stripe and is in position 15. When using it as a ground and connecting it to my multi meter, I get full 12v (actually higher) when it gets dark and the headlights come on automatically. This ranges and changes as the sensor sees light. I saw as low as 6v yesterday, but it wasn't very bright. I imagine I could get close to 0 on a sunny day. I tried a test using this for the ground on a relay and the relay would not switch. This was a standard 50amp relay I had laying around. I am trying to figure out how get a relay that will switch (close) as the ground allows a full 12v, but open back up as this drops down to 10-11 volts. That sort of electrical thing is not something I am used to dealing with. Any insight would be appreciated. As I continue to work on this, I will post my findings.

I tested my voltage for pulsation at the headlights when DRL's were active and saw a constant full voltage no matter what test light, multimeter, etc that I used. I expected to see pulsation as many have experienced, but could not duplicate it.

At this point what are you trying to accomplish? IF you tape over your light sensor youll have no DRL. And you just switch your headlights on manually.

Or, quad retro fit headlights with manual on and off switch like i started. the headlights are almost done (classypontiac is making them) i already got my switches installed and the wiring ran. For my headlights i no longer use the stock headlight switch that is built into the car. I bypassed it completely. Here is my setup
Its a Quad Retro
3 switches
1) for just the normal low beams (only one light for each headlight is on)
2) for quad low beams
3) for quad high beams (and only dual high beams if you leave switch #2 off.

the above added with my projector fog lights = recidulous amount of light but completely fixes the DRL problem in a very nice way if you ask me. but that's just my .02

Originally Posted by Sven The Sexman

How do you live in Jacksonville yet I have not seen your car? LOL

Well I've been in jacksonville for coming up on two years. but i live on base. You military? BTW I'm deployed right now so my cars in storage with that semper fi storage place. not a bad deal really

well sh*t man, when i get back in we can meet up. i got a few other GXP guys locally i know and meet up with every now and then.

Originally Posted by DirtDog

well sh*t man, when i get back in we can meet up. i got a few other GXP guys locally i know and meet up with every now and then.

im jealous, Its just me representing grand prix down here in AZ, nobody else apparently gives a **** lol

sven no i won't be back until late in the year. just left at the end of january

and 91parkave, i guess you're just holdin down the fort in your neck of the woods for GPs then

ahhh okay, well you'd still be welcome to chill with the group sometime. where you heading to next?

well, this part of NC will ruin NC for ya. it's a poopie hole.

Originally Posted by 91parkave

At this point what are you trying to accomplish? IF you tape over your light sensor youll have no DRL. And you just switch your headlights on manually.

I have gone back and forth, but currently I am settled on this: I want the fog lights and LEDs (or LED Halos) on. I am doing a HID projector retro soon and don't want them on all the time. Then, when it is truly dark have the projectors come on with the fog lights etc. The side benefit is the fog lights being on with the headlights, etc without always having to switch them on.

Then you have a lot of relays To wire up and figure out. I have retros ready but I just have my sensor taped over and using a harness

No doubt. I used to install stereo's and alarms so relays don't scare me. I am leaning towards using the dash light signal to trigger this. Once the ambient light sensor shows dark it takes 10-15 seconds before the headlights are turned on. This would likely be better because driving under a bridge during daylight might trigger the retro headlights on for a second and then right back off which isn't good for them. I will likely install an override switch in the event I want to dim the interior lights and need the headlights on. It will just take a bit of time and wiring.