J57ltr's 05' GTP wrecked again.

**Scottydoggs** · 07-17-2015

the f body rotor is a different size lug pattern, but the holes are so big it fits the w body lugs fine, hub bore is the same too.

its as easy as taking your old brakes off and installing these in their place.

**J57ltr** · 07-17-2015

Yeah, but I really don't want to buy calipers right now, I am not headed to the JY this weekend since I already have a lot on my plate besides the car. I'm pushing it this week getting rotors, pads, tires, tie rods and alignment. Some how someone ordered 15 ppv movies, none of which I watched....

Jeff

**Scottydoggs** · 07-17-2015

slap cheap pads in there and save up for the up grade, its so worth it. stop ordering ppv lol its all free on the net lol

**CrazyGuy03** · 07-17-2015

Get the calipers at advanced auto new. Use a 30% dscount code. You can buy both new with brackets for $60

4 -12mm fbody caliper bracket bolts (12x1.75x40mm)
Mcmaster 6679k16

Also look up these with same discount. Do seperste orders to avoid maxing out the $50 savings allowed

Brakes - Regal rear hawk pads
HB359F.543

Regal - camaro front hawk pads
HB249F.575

**Booba5185** · 07-17-2015

Another option is the 06+ Impala brakes. Basically the same thing as the F-bodies, but cast iron, and bolt right on. F-bodies are 3 pounds lighter per side, need to be drilled\tapped (or sleeves uses on the factory f-body caliper bolts), and are gravity fed aluminum casting. From what I hear this gravity fed casting can lead to clam-shelling but most on here run them without issues.

**CrazyGuy03** · 07-17-2015

3lbs heavier ? Did I miss something?

**Booba5185** · 07-17-2015

My bad, 3 pounds lighter, let me edit it

**CrazyGuy03** · 07-17-2015

I like touchiness of the impala brakes but the fbody are more stock like until you dig into it

**Booba5185** · 07-17-2015

I don't think my Impala's are touchy, but I'll admit, I haven't driven anything with f-bodies. Only other thing I drive with upgraded brakes is my F150 with an F350 booster, master cylinder, and rear cylinders. That thing is touchy. If you aren't careful you are picking teeth out of the steering wheel.

**BillBoost37** · 07-17-2015

F body worked for me.

Scott pissed his pants in under a mile.

**Booba5185** · 07-17-2015

Personally I always thought they were basically the same thing with very small and hardly noticeable differences. They are both leaps and bounds ahead of stock, that's for sure.

**BillBoost37** · 07-17-2015

IDK..

I did all four corners with braided lines, different calipers and fresh pads/rotors. Clearly flushed the hell out of it with a power bleeder and used synthentic dot 4. Clean and fresh worked great.

Audi expects that you flush the fluid every two years. They cite the obvious that the fluid absorbs moisture and crap. When that happens..it doesn't work as well as it could. I've done fluid flushes in many higher mile vehicles and it helps a lot to freshen the fluid.

**J57ltr** · 07-19-2015

Discount tire was jam packed and jelly tight so I just slapped some pads on the rear and ran a roll loc over the rotor to scuff them up for now. Slapped a couple of outer tie rod ends on it. It's driving just like it did before so I don't think the alignment is any worse than it was. It's not pulling and goes straight when I let the wheel go. I'm going to drop the car off on Monday at discount since it's around the corner from work. Then I'll take and have it aligned probably Tuesday.

I started getting a rattle up near the HUD last week so I need to check that out, but it's way too hot. 97* with a feels like of 104*. I did find some wiring I noticed before. It's behind the little door in the drivers side. The wire is cut and seemed to be grounded it lands somewhere close to the BCM. I'll have to check it out later. Didn't take the car to work since we had a large amount of 2X4's and lumber blocking the doors and the hot shop, well might as well knock it out early before it gets too hot at the house.

Spent the rest of the day pulling out stuff from the Park Ave and my Taurus to get ready to get rid of them. Having four cars in the driveway is getting a little old. Think I'm just going to junk them.

Going to save up for a brake upgrade to the F-body calipers and rotors since it seems like a logical thing to do. Since they are lighter and I am going to race it on occasion at Baytown when it cools down. By that time it should be in racing condition. One of the local tuner shops is having a dyno day in a couple of weeks so I'll get a baseline on the car before I do anything to it. The wife's car needs new tires as well and an alignment, damn those 18" rims, tires are expensive.

thanks again for the info guys it's been enlightening for sure.

Jeff

**J57ltr** · 07-20-2015

New shoes for the car! Man it feels so much better, I don't have any shimmy anymore. Going to have to find a decent alignment shop and take it in. Any checks I should do before I take it in? Is there anyway to make sure the cradle is square to the chassis, Since I know the trans was replaced and it was dropped down to replace the Rack?

Jeff

**BillBoost37** · 07-21-2015

Hey.. wait.. You have a PA? IIRC the PA caliper bracket was the same as the bracket on the monte for the bigger disc. Might be a free upgrade to swap brackets. Ask Buickman104

**CrazyGuy03** · 07-21-2015

Yep. The PA had the 12" rotors but regular caliper

**BillBoost37** · 07-21-2015

Free upgrade parts!!!!!

**J57ltr** · 07-21-2015

Yup, it's a 97' it's mostly white and it floats like a cloud. Mechanically it's in pretty good shape except for the cats since I had the crank sensor fail again right after installing it about 10 miles out from work one morning. Then after messing with it and not realizing that it was a defective crank sensor, I ended up driving it home after buying the GP. The check engine and the chime dinged at me the entire 20 miles 3 times every 10 seconds. I'm pretty sure the convertor is toast. It's ugly as home made soap and although the inside is in good shape, I am just going to junk it. What other parts would be worth taking from it before I get rid of it? Is the bolt pattern the same? I pulled a good spare from the JY for it not long ago.

Jeff

**J57ltr** · 07-29-2015

So I have started to notice that once I get out of traffic and get to the highway that my engine is starting to heat up. I can go from 190* then it will climb to 215* if I have the AC on. I looked at the radiator and it's super small maybe 5/8" thick. I have noticed that there are 1" cores for sale but would like to get an even larger one if they are made for a different car.

Now as you may know I have laready flushed the cooling system and have been running a 180* Stat and although the in traffic temps have decreased (using the AC), the Rad seems too small for this car and the AC. I am guessing that a 9C1 Impala should fit my 05' just fine, but what other stock sized radiators are out there that are larger but drop in replacements. I am not looking to get a Griffin or anything like that just the largest stock radiator available for the 05'.

I am going to do a test next week where I am going to put the 190* stat back in there and log data for it. Is it necessary, probably not, but I like to see data. So I am going to do it for giggles. In the mean time I am wondering what you guys have for info. I have searched for Larger radiator, Comp G radiator and thicker radiator and came up with a few results mostly blaming poor coolant and sludge.

Just remember down here we are high humidity and 100* temps so a larger Rad is going to have to happen.

Jeff

**chrsmi1** · 07-29-2015

Originally Posted by J57ltr

So I have started to notice that once I get out of traffic and get to the highway that my engine is starting to heat up. I can go from 190* then it will climb to 215* if I have the AC on. I looked at the radiator and it's super small maybe 5/8" thick. I have noticed that there are 1" cores for sale but would like to get an even larger one if they are made for a different car.

Now as you may know I have laready flushed the cooling system and have been running a 180* Stat and although the in traffic temps have decreased (using the AC), the Rad seems too small for this car and the AC. I am guessing that a 9C1 Impala should fit my 05' just fine, but what other stock sized radiators are out there that are larger but drop in replacements. I am not looking to get a Griffin or anything like that just the largest stock radiator available for the 05'.

I am going to do a test next week where I am going to put the 190* stat back in there and log data for it. Is it necessary, probably not, but I like to see data. So I am going to do it for giggles. In the mean time I am wondering what you guys have for info. I have searched for Larger radiator, Comp G radiator and thicker radiator and came up with a few results mostly blaming poor coolant and sludge.

Just remember down here we are high humidity and 100* temps so a larger Rad is going to have to happen.

Jeff

Honestly I've never had a problem with it. And it gets pretty hot and humid here in nc. But my engine does almost exactly what you described, just with lower values. I'll heat up to about 185-190 and in traffic or at a light or just after I'll see my torque app and it'll be a little over 200. Maybe even 205.

And all this is after a 180* t stat and a tune for the fans to come on at a good temp.

The point I'm making is I've thought about upgrading the radiator too, but honestly I don't think it's a big deal. It's just what these gm machines do.

If you decide to get a 9c1 or another I would love to see if there is any difference. Probably won't be and if there is it'll probably be small but it's nice to see if anything changes.