How to transmission 4th gear side cover access

**BillBoost37** · 11-17-2011

To pull the trans apart to do this.. I like to do this.
Drain trans fluid
Support motor from above.

Unhook endlinks
Pop both balljoints
Remove 2 18mm bolts holding ps rack to subframe
Unclip ps cooler line from subframe
Remove any plastic clips holding wiring to subframe
Undo two 15mm nuts on engine mount to subframe and 2 15mm nuts holding trans mount to subframe
Lower subframe (4 x 18mm bolts)
Pull driverside axle
Remove as many trans side cover bolts as possible
Now lower the motor/trans (tilting a little to the driverside if possible)
Remove any remaining side cover bolts and lower assembly until you can wiggle the cover out.

Gently unhook the wiring harness for the trans

Unhook the valve slide that is connected to the shift cable (in this pic on the lower right, see the metal rod? That's what you need to unhook at the end we can't see that is under a soleniod.)

Remove the pump from ontop of the VB (black screws only, leave that silver one in to hold the pump together)

Pump off

Remove bolts 230, 231, 377, 805, 433, 434, 435, 436, 374, 379, 380, 384

This will get the VB/channel plate as one unit.
Replace hub shaft, clutches (if applicable) and channel plate gaskets.

When doing the gaskets. You'll notice there's one pin at the end of a long gasket. This is where the spare M6 bolts come in. Looking at the vb/channel plate combo, determine where you can put a bolt and still take it out once the assmebly is back in palce.

Here's the 4th clutches, the part they engage in the middle is the hub shaft

Removing the clutch plates, pull the shaft and note a plastic shim/bearing on the shaft. The nubs of that sit in the drive gear where this came out of.

You will likely need to vigorously wiggle and turn the new shaft to engage it in place. Then put the clutches back in place (note orientation of the notches etc as the channel plate has to clear them) and it'll all go well.

One thing you can check while you are there is the drive chains. You pull them with a finger toward the bottom of the case and the measurement to resuse changes IIRC needs to be 1/8" or more.

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Easy

**CTKGP09** · 06-18-2013

used this to fix my 4th gear...once again, thanks billboost for the info!

**BillBoost37** · 06-19-2013

Happy to help out

**synysterjoe** · 06-19-2013

This almost works as an input shaft/drive chain R&R as well. Good right up. I didn't think you could remove CP and VB as one assembly.

**BillBoost37** · 06-19-2013

This does not work as an input shaft replacement thread, because it leaves the transmission in the car. If the trans was out and you pulled these pieces, then it would be good for input shaft. Without pulling the o-ring on the input shaft..you can't pull it out properly.

**synysterjoe** · 06-19-2013

Ah, see it looked as though it was out of the car. My bad.

**jj5428** · 07-03-2013

Sorry if I missed this but what are the torque specs for putting the valve body/pump and side cover back on. I got the parts today and am going to try this tomorrow. I got the metal channel plate gaskets and 4th shaft from ZZP.

**jj5428** · 07-08-2013

4th Gear fixed with trans still in car using this guide.

Thanks Bill!

**BillBoost37** · 07-08-2013

Toss the specs up based on bolt number if you have it. I'll include it. Most bolts are 97 or 106 inch .. then a couple are a bit more.

**indygrandprix** · 03-15-2014

Is there a trick to getting the valve body back on? Mine won't slide all the way back down over the input shaft. Its hung up about 1 cm away from being on.

**Schmidty** · 03-18-2014

^ i hate this thread just cause i hate tranny work... i had one of my dad's friends who is just as old as my dad and has been working on tranny's since he was my age.. so a long ass time.. when we took my cover off.. well first we tried forcing it .. which he didn't like after it happened so sure enough we pulled it off and the 3rd gear something or another.. i can't remember busted off.. but then we fixed that and it should slide on the same way it came off.. you've lowered the engine and tranny down and taking the cradle off and everything with that right? if so.. lower it a little more down and see if it helps.. extra hands also help too if they are available. But as far as a trick.. don't think there's a real "trick" that we did at all. just find where it's getting held up and work around that.

**indygrandprix** · 03-20-2014

Mine is out of the car and sitting flat so I don't think that's the issue

**Schmidty** · 03-22-2014

Originally Posted by indygrandprix

Mine is out of the car and sitting flat so I don't think that's the issue

then idk what your issue is or why you're struggling to get it back on... i put mine back on while it was still in the car.. shouldn't be an issue for you if its out of the car.

**joe0813** · 03-30-2014

ill be using this soon... stupid trans

**nik12937** · 04-15-2014

Well, my 05's back on the road finally after using this guide to get in the side cover. I replaced all the solenoids, put in a Sonnax line pressure valve assembly, a revised torque signal valve, and the 3-4 portion of my TransGo shift kit. All the problems I was experiencing are officially gone, and this thing shifts better than the day I bought it. Thanks again for the guide Bill!

**BillBoost37** · 04-16-2014

Glad to help out.. Sounds like you had some fun.

**Bigwiggs3214** · 05-10-2014

Is it absolutely necessary to use a hoist to get the side cover off? I'm doing solenoids (P0742). Some people have said to loosen one side and completely remove bolts on drivers side and lower with a jack. Is this possible?

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