Thread: How to remove a transmission

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  1. #101 Re: How to remove a transmission 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Use some trans goo or grease to hold it in place so it doesn't slip when you are putting it back together.

    Not the worst thing to find and fix, just a little time.
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    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  4. #102 Re: How to remove a transmission 
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    Looks like I am back for more (my 99grandprixGT was hit by an 18 wheeler 3years ago).

    I recently was recruited by a buddy to help him with his 09 Impala SS, which has the 5.3L and 4T65E-HD transmission.

    He has a bad tranny fluid leak that drips right below the torque converter and seems to be coming from the bell housing. It's clearly not the pan, as I can stick my fingers in the inspection window and find tons of fluid running right over my fingers. When the car is off, it has stopped leaking, but when it is on... it just pours. Must be the seal on the input shaft of the transmission.

    Can you guys help me confirm that, that is what is happening?

    Supposedly, it was rebuilt by a shop for the previous owner a few months before my buddy bought it, and he owned it for 3mo before it started pouring all the fluid out. 6mo warranty, I am guessing, so it's out of warranty.

    Last question, do you think it would be best to pull the engine, then swap that seal? Or drop the subframe(aka craddle) and tranny, then swap the seal? The engine has an oil leak coming from it also, so I'm thinking the pulling the engine method, and I can do both in one shot.

    I don't have access to a lift, but I do have a hoist.

    Thoughts? Any and all help is super appreciated, and you guys have always been the best!
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  5. #103 Re: How to remove a transmission 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McFly1999 View Post
    Looks like I am back for more (my 99grandprixGT was hit by an 18 wheeler 3years ago).

    I recently was recruited by a buddy to help him with his 09 Impala SS, which has the 5.3L and 4T65E-HD transmission.

    He has a bad tranny fluid leak that drips right below the torque converter and seems to be coming from the bell housing. It's clearly not the pan, as I can stick my fingers in the inspection window and find tons of fluid running right over my fingers. When the car is off, it has stopped leaking, but when it is on... it just pours. Must be the seal on the input shaft of the transmission.

    Can you guys help me confirm that, that is what is happening?

    Supposedly, it was rebuilt by a shop for the previous owner a few months before my buddy bought it, and he owned it for 3mo before it started pouring all the fluid out. 6mo warranty, I am guessing, so it's out of warranty.

    Last question, do you think it would be best to pull the engine, then swap that seal? Or drop the subframe(aka craddle) and tranny, then swap the seal? The engine has an oil leak coming from it also, so I'm thinking the pulling the engine method, and I can do both in one shot.

    I don't have access to a lift, but I do have a hoist.

    Thoughts? Any and all help is super appreciated, and you guys have always been the best!
    Just went through a transmission replacement and rebuild for a friend with an 06 gxp. Could be the seal, also could be the o ring on the input shaft? Not sure if this would cause a leak or not. I'd check the input shaft and torque converter for scoring just to be safe since when the bearings fail here they can cause damage.

    As Far as servicing, forget about trying to lift the engine out the top. Drop the subframe and keep the engine in for sure. It's a pain in the rear. Just let me know if you need help with anything!
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  6. #104 Re: How to remove a transmission 
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    Thanks for the reply. Anyone else?

    As for pulling the motor. I pulled the motor out the top on my 99 Grandprix 3.8L GT (bill boost style as it's called), and wasn't that hard... but, if you mean to forget about trying to pull the 5.3L since it's so tightly in there... then, I understand. That's something I was considering. 3.8L, no problem. 5.3L??? If it is so much harder, than the 3.8L, then agreed.

    How many hours did it take you to drop the subframe and transmission, and then reinstall? Would you say 8hrs for the removal, and 8hrs for the install? More? Less?
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  7. #105 Re: How to remove a transmission 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McFly1999 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Anyone else?

    As for pulling the motor. I pulled the motor out the top on my 99 Grandprix 3.8L GT (bill boost style as it's called), and wasn't that hard... but, if you mean to forget about trying to pull the 5.3L since it's so tightly in there... then, I understand. That's something I was considering. 3.8L, no problem. 5.3L??? If it is so much harder, than the 3.8L, then agreed.

    How many hours did it take you to drop the subframe and transmission, and then reinstall? Would you say 8hrs for the removal, and 8hrs for the install? More? Less?
    Right on the money! Not sure if it can be done out the top, but can't see it being worth it. I used a harbor freight engine support bar to keep the engine in, disconnected the power steering rack, cooler lines, torque converter bolts, opted to remove the control arms to replace bushings but you can leave these on the subframe and disconnect ball joint, engine and trans mount, then drop. Only took maybe two hours for that step since that's pretty similar to 3800 stuff. Then we supported trans with a trans jack with support strap for safety, worst part was the reverse bolt on the bellhousing that we forgot to get before, but still reachable, unhook electronics and shifter, starter removal (you might be able to just remove the cables) , transmission to engine mount, our control arms were off, we opted to remove the axle nuts, and remove the axles fully, then drop.

    Your estimate is about right for removal since we hadn't done a 5.3 and made a lot of stupid mistakes. Going back in definitely didn't take 8 hours, but always good to leave extra room for things you'll forget!
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  8. #106 Re: How to remove a transmission 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Yeah.. the 5.3 is a different situation as is the 4T65 in it. Pulling the trans is much tighter and therefore not as much fun as a 3.8L. It's possible, just more of a pain. As for the leak... (experience talking here) it could be the seal or the converter. Yes.. I've done a seal and ended up going back in for the converter only to put pressure (on it and see it leaking from a crack that was not visible to the eye.

    As for the o-ring, I'm trying to remember.... pretty sure that would leak back into the trans itself. So it wouldn't leak externally due to the ring.
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  9. #107 Re: How to remove a transmission 
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    Sounds great! Thanks guys! I'll report back once it's all done so that you can also take pride in another one saved
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  10. #108 Re: How to remove a transmission 
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    Besides fluids, is there anything else i might need to buy if im dropping my old tranny and replacing with a used one? Ive pulled the engine and tranny as a combo before and attached outside the car but this would be my first time doing just the tranny. Anything to look out for when reattaching to a mounted engine?
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  11. #109 Re: How to remove a transmission 
    SE Level Member derpyimp's Avatar
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    Just a couple of tools if you don't have them already. You need a really long extension to get one of the bell housing bolts on the back side of the engine. You need either an engine support bar or a cherry picker to support the engine from above after you drop the cradle. Preferably a transmission jack to safely lower the transmission out from under the motor without it tipping sideways and falling on you. Other than that, just basic tools needed.

    The hardest part for me is always trying to get the motor and transmission mounts lined up when putting the cradle back in. The engine always shifts a bit when removing the subframe and you end up having to pry it back into place to get the bolts to line up. That, and getting the steering rack back onto the subframe because there's no room to do anything down there at the back of the tranny. It's a pain, but all doable.
    '04 GTP Comp-G - 14.871 @ 93.30 (6600 ft DA) - 3.6 MPS, SD headers w/ high-flow cat, Gutted stock airbox, Transgo shift kit, AL 104s, 180 tstat, GMPP front sway bar, poly control arm bushings, Tune by Dyno Brian
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