Thread: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method

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  1. #1 My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Well, I've had several people ask me about this, so I figured I'd finally spill the beans and hopefully this will help someone out.


    First off, I'm sure I'll miss things on the first post so I'll be updating as I go. Also, if you have any modifications or suggestions, please comment and I'll be happy to add/modify things!


    As far as pictures, I'll be going to the junkyard in a few weeks to pull and engine so I'll take detailed pictures then.


    All in all, I've pulled several engines in about than 30 minutes using this method. Before I start though, I unfortunately have to preface that I am in no way responsible for you hurting yourself, others, property, or your firstborn child as most of this method is extremely risky if you don't know what you're doing or don't keep your wits (and fingers) about you.


    See below this list if you just need the transmission


    RED is for those wanting to pull the transmission too


    1. Go to the next door car trunk and grab the spare tire cover (or two) and lay them under the car you want to rip the heart out of
    2. Get under there and use that 10mm ratchet to remove the transmission inspection plate cover
    3. Use a screw driver to "pry" the flywheel and turn the flex plate until you see the first torque converter bolt, from there repeat until you remove all three (18mm)
    4. Right by the cover, use a pick to remove the transmission cooler line clips and simply pull them to remove the lines (careful they will drip)
    5. use a long extension and 13mm on an impact (recommended but not required) on the passenger side to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the differential housing cover.
    6. easiest way to do this is to climb on top of the engine and use a deep 13mm socket to remove the two remaining bolts to the bracket attaching the engine to the transmission. You won't be able to see them, but you should be able to feel them. Some people prefer doing this through the wheel well, but there's so much in the way, I find it easier to reach from above.
    7. While you're up there, remove the upper radiator hose (or if you don't care or are in a hurry like me, just cut it)
    8. Remove or cut the lower radiator hose
    9. Remove or cut the fuel lines
    10. Remove the coolant overflow bottle (on later models where it's by the belt)
    11. Cut or remove the drive belt (15mm counterclockwise on tensioner if you care)
    12. You can ignore this step and just cut these lines when you pull the engine, but I usually do it this way: using a thin wall deep socket 13mm remove both power steering pump bolts at 12 and 6 o'clock and either pull it up and strap it to the side out of the way, or my favorite, just cut the lines.
    13. Remove the 15mm bolts from the upper engine mounts and remove the dog bones.
    14. If you care about the wire harness, spend the next few minutes unplugging the maf, tps, map, iat, fuel injectors, egr, etc. sensors to remove the wire harness, or as I usually do, Just cut the big bundle of wires coming from the middle of the fans to the engine, and the rear going down to the bank 2 o2 sensor, (for transmission folks, cut the bundle going the transmission stuff too).
    15. This is a tricky step, use the longest extension you can imagine with double swivels on each end with a 18mm socket and carefully thread it from the passenger wheel well to the bellhousing bolt right where the power steering pump was under the exhaust manifold between the engine and transmission (a very bright head-light really helps here) and using a very long breaker bar or if your impact is strong enough, remove this bolt (I usually start it with a breaker and remove quickly with the impact)
    16. Remove the Air box assembly (if you need help with this, stop reading and find something else to do....)
    17. Optional, but it's usually so quick I do it anyhow: Using an extension remove the exhaust crossover pipe using a 13mm deep socket (rear has a cover then the bolts). You can remove the throttle body if you wish, but you really don't have to.
    18. Loosen but don't remove the bell-housing bolts
    19. under the car, using a wrench and ratchet, remove the ground bolt connected from the bellhousing to the starter wire
    20. Remove the two bolts securing the starter to the engine 15mm? and either cut or remove the remaining wires going to it and remove.
    21. remove the upper engine (/transmission mount bolts if you're removing the transmission)
    22. Go to any car and pull the seat belt out as far as it'll go and cut it closest to where it comes out and cut the far end and remove the clip (you'll use these to lift the engine
    23. Tie these around both lift loops in front and rear of engine together in the center for clipping to the lift.
    24. Remove the throttle body cables if the throttle body is still on
    25. If you haven't already, disconnect or cut the evap line
    26. Place the engine lift in place and hook up and put tension on the straps
    27. Oh, if you care about the axles, remove them. I'm not detailing it here because I don't care about them...
    28. Remove the bellhousing bolts we loosened earlier
    29. Using a long breaker bar 18mm loosen the four subframe bolts (on 04+ you have some "extra" brackets on the front)
    30. I cannot stress safety on this step enough!!!! I prefer using an impact with a swivel so I can keep everything out of the way, but remove the rear subframe bolts and then the front. That last one might drop the subframe a foot or so so be careful!
    31. As you've noticed, the subframe is still attached because of the struts. Now CAREFULLY remove the six strut tower bolts and the subframe will drop to the ground, hopefully breaking the cv joint with it.
    32. If you don't care about the transmission, Carefully use something long to "kick" the transmission off the engine.
    33. Gently lower the engine/transmission near the ground and use a pry bar to pry the transmission off the engine (we'll come back for it)
    34. Pull the engine up and out! Sweet success!
    35. wrap another set of "straps" around the transmission and just lift out.


    For those just wanting to pull the transmission, perform steps 1-6, 10-12, last part of 14, 15-21, 22-23 and 26 isn't expressly required, but I recommend it for safety, 27-32 and just drag it out like a greased pig!


    As a note, there is another method that I've used on occasion when I really don't care about any of the accessories, is to essentially do 1-4, 13, 16-21, 29-31, to drop the transmission and engine to the ground, then separate the transmission from the engine on the ground and remove. This method is EXTREMELY dangerous, and I only use it if I can't get access to a lift and need the transmission (engine is too heavy to "slide out" without a LOT of help), but it works so I'm mentioning it!
    Last edited by wstefan20; 01-01-2018 at 08:30 PM.
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  3. #2 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I've removed a lot of stuff in yards and in a garage. I don't see your method being 30 min if someone is following your steps.

    If you want a trans or engine out in 30 min through the top.
    Cut fuel lines, coolant hoses, trans lines, ps lines and wiring harness going to engine plus O2 wiring going to cat at back of engine
    Unhook TB cables if the car is not drive by wire
    Remove two bolts holding trans cable bracket and pop cable off trans
    Remove two nuts off motor mount under subframe and two nuts off trans mount on the top of the mount.
    Unbolt AC and push it onto the subframe (or cut the hoses..but this is freon and you don't want it on you)
    Unbolt two bolts from downpipe to rear engine manifold
    Pull coolant overflow bottle and front engine upper mounts
    Lift out

    If you don't want trans..not it's easy to take off as all bolts are easy to get to.


    Also.. maybe I missed it, I didn't see the trans to engine mount being taken off in your steps.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  4. #3 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    You're right. If this is your first time there's no way you can do this in 30 minutes. I have removed almost 10 of these with this method and I have both an electric side socket impact and a regular battery drill impact. When you remove a lot of these, you know what socket sizes are what just by looking at the bolts (and most by memory). That's how it only takes me 30 minutes. Admittedly, I use the more dangerous method I mentioned at the end more than I'd like to admit. I like your way too, though usually there's too much demand for the crane to borrow it this long. Thanks for the input! I'm sure that will help someone!
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  5. #4 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTP Level Member buck531's Avatar
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    torque converter bolts are 18 mm btw.
    03 GS - SSAC, AEM wb, PT,SR rockers, Gen 3, 3.4, dynotech trans w/ 3.29's.

    87 Fiero GT. L67 Swap. XP, ported heads/sc. N* TB, FSIC, 2.8, 12.018 @ 113 1.71 60'.
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  6. #5 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buck531 View Post
    torque converter bolts are 18 mm btw.

    Thanks! I'll update it. I knew I'd make a mistake on one of those
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  7. #6 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    FWIW...trust me when I tell you I have also done tons and your method has a bunch of extra steps even with impact.. 30 minutes alone? Doesn't feel like it's doable. By leaving the subframe in, you only need the crane for almost no time because by the time you are ready.. all you do is lift. Additionally, you don't need to break any axles. simply cut the inner boot clamp and the axle will slide right out. Convenient because the inner shaft cup works as a nice plug to keep the trans from leaking.

    Fastest removal I did in a jy was on a car that had rolled. The bellhousing was broken as was the lower engine mount and ac bracket. Undid the ps pump, engine to diff bracket , dog bones and lifted.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #7 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    FWIW...trust me when I tell you I have also done tons and your method has a bunch of extra steps even with impact.. 30 minutes alone? Doesn't feel like it's doable. By leaving the subframe in, you only need the crane for almost no time because by the time you are ready.. all you do is lift. Additionally, you don't need to break any axles. simply cut the inner boot clamp and the axle will slide right out. Convenient because the inner shaft cup works as a nice plug to keep the trans from leaking.

    Fastest removal I did in a jy was on a car that had rolled. The bellhousing was broken as was the lower engine mount and ac bracket. Undid the ps pump, engine to diff bracket , dog bones and lifted.
    Thanks for the input! I see what you're talking about with the cv joints. Usually when the frame drops it "cuts" the boot where you are talking and the shaft just slides out. I guess the word "break" wasn't the best word there as "separated" is probably more accurate. I'll have to try just snipping the boot clamp like you said and see if that's easier.

    By 30 minutes, I'm simply referring to the time I get everything in position and all my tools ready and actually start working on the car to the point where the engine leaves the car. I hope I did not make this sound otherwise. Obviously there is time not only in transport and getting the crane and everything in position and taking off the items you don't need once it's out of the car. I should also mention that I'm young, so for now (knock on wood) I have that going for me.

    I'd love to find one like that in the yard! that would save a TON of time! lol
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  9. #8 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I think you've done it enough times.

    Scotty will chime in.. as I'm calling him out. He pulled into the garage and 4 hours later he had a different transmission and was driving home. That included (his words) stopping for the guys picking up the wood etc and test drive. That's a pretty quick spin around for a trans swap.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  11. #9 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    its all true.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #10 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    I think you've done it enough times.

    Scotty will chime in.. as I'm calling him out. He pulled into the garage and 4 hours later he had a different transmission and was driving home. That included (his words) stopping for the guys picking up the wood etc and test drive. That's a pretty quick spin around for a trans swap.

    Absolutely! I'd call that a quick turn around time for sure! My experience is mainly on ripping these out of junkyard cars. Only one I've ever installed was the one in my grand prix, and I was terrified! (first engine I ever took out, rebuilt, or put in a car!)

    I hope I'm not coming across as bragging ever, especially on this post. I'm still relatively new to the gp world (and cars in general), and never claim to be an expert. My only intention with this post is to help those who have never pulled an engine before so they don't end up like me, in -2 degree weather for two days getting laughed at by the local junkyard experts trying to pull an engine the "haynes way". I think a lot of us forget about what it's like to not know the basics. That's all I made this for.
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  13. #11 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Luckily people can use that haynes as a heat source while they burn it. It's that good. There are so many how to's on the site. Want to find them? search my name and Eas y without the space.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  14. #12 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Luckily people can use that haynes as a heat source while they burn it. It's that good. There are so many how to's on the site. Want to find them? search my name and Eas y without the space.
    Agreed with the haynes being a piece of garbage. I know there's plenty of how-to's since I've written quite a few of them myself, as well as used several of yours. If you don't think this one adds anything then that's fine, we all have opinions. This is just a few ways that I do it so I thought I'd share and try to help someone out.
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  15. #13 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I think all of them add. It's always good to be open to reading a different way etc. Who know when we find some easier method or quicker way to do something.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  16. #14 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
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    nice write up needed a good one
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  17. #15 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
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    Found it! Thanks!!!

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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  18. #16 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
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    Any pictures for a right brainer haha? About to try to complete the task today

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  19. #17 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Pictures in a JY.. doubtful. It's enough of a pain to get them in a garage. Honestly doing pictures while working takes tons of time.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  20. #18 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Pictures in a JY.. doubtful. It's enough of a pain to get them in a garage. Honestly doing pictures while working takes tons of time.
    haha very very true.. thus why I don't have any pictures. I'll have to overhaul my valve body and channel plate this summer and plan on upgrading some internals while I'm in there so I'll make sure to get pictures where I can!
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  21. #19 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
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    why did you drop the subframe? jw bc im gonna be pulling my motor this weekend
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  22. #20 Re: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method 
    GTX Level Member wstefan20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetfighterv View Post
    why did you drop the subframe? jw bc im gonna be pulling my motor this weekend
    If you're pulling the motor, it depends on your yard what works best. My favorite yard has nice overhead cranes that are super easy to get it out the top, others don't so out the bottom is the only way. It's also a matter of preference. I find it easier sometimes to take things off with it on the ground than deal with climbing all on top of the engine bay. There's lots of different ways to accomplish this, this is just a general guideline to show you one way and for you to modify to your liking. Good luck btw!
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