Thread: Any DIY Step By Step to Change spark plugs??

Originally Posted by mechguy

Delco platinum or iridium plugs (same as stock).

Ive been told platinums cause knock because they cannot disperse heat fast enough and cause hotspots.

Originally Posted by KeithGTP03

Ive been told platinums cause knock because they cannot disperse heat fast enough and cause hotspots.

Dude, whomever told you that, *I* would question their opinions. Even copper electrode shouldn't cause this. The temperature of the electrodes is controlled by the length of the ceramic insulator that surrounds the center electrode and the design of the electrode itself.

The only *real* differences are design, hardness, melting point and conductance. The iridium should last longer because of its hardness and possibly fire ever so slightly more consistently because of its conductance.

None of these plugs should reach the point of possible pre-ignition unless something is seriously wrong, or the engine is of high performance design reaching very high RPM and compression where the insulator doesn’t have enough time to cool the electrode.

It is completely unnecessary to remove your dogbones and rock your engine to change your spark plugs (though it can be helpful). I have enormous hands and thick forearms and have no trouble changing my plugs with the following procedure, which does not involve engine rocking:

Make sure your engine is cold. I can't stress how much is sucks to do this on a hot engine. Pro Tip: park the passenger side up to a curb so you can stand on it if you're short.

Pop the hood and stand on the passenger side of the engine bay. Unplug all of the spark plug wire boots from the spark plugs. If you're going to change the wires for fresh ones, just rip them off like an animal. Otherwise, you can kinda jiggle and twist and pull. Just let the plugs hang there.

Assemble your socket wrench/knuckle/socket into Voltron. The tiger head hands really help with grip in this situation.

Lean over (don't be afraid to brace yourself on the body of the intake manifold, but be very, very careful not to lean on anything plastic because you will break it) and use your hand on the socket to guide it to a spark plug. Sometimes, you'll accidentally find one of the exhaust manifold bolts... it's okay, because you won't be able to get those off with that socket. You can use your ~*IMAGINATION*~ to locate them if you like - just look at the front spark plugs and form a picture in your mind of the probable location on the other side. Anyway, contort your body into whatever position is comfortable - it is impossible to see what you're doing, so it doesn't matter where your head faces.

Once you've got the spark plug loose, you can thread it out by hand by using a secret kung-fu grip. A dropped plug will go (almost) directly to the ground within arm's reach, so don't poo yourself if you drop it.

Then get the other two. You will use various yoga poses in this - the squealing pig, fist-in-a-cookie-jar, and the majestic mantis-ape are among the most useful.

If you can't get the front three out without further instruction, carefully, but forcefully shove the socket wrench (now Voltron) in to your ear until it protrudes from the other side of your head.

Use a gapping tool to set the proper gap on the new spark plugs to 0.60. Begin re-insertion with the rear plugs. You may need to first find the hole with your bare finger (teehee) because by now, you've forgotten where that sucker is. Using your hand, get the plug mated up to the hole (giggle) and very carefully thread it in, being careful not to use excessive force to crossthread the plug, because that'll ruin your day.

Get all three rear plugs as tight as you can with your fingers, then use Voltron to tighten them up pretty nice. Technically, you could use a toque wrench here once it's pretty tight, but I have no idea what to set it to because nobody ever bothers with that.

Anyway, do the front three the same way, except you're allowed to use your eyes.

As for the spark plug wires, I recommend removing them one at a time and then replacing them before moving on to the next wire, which ensures that you don't connect the wrong coil/cylinder combo - a magical treat that would make your engine breakdance. Oh, and the plugs just pop off those coils. Nothing special there.

Questions?

Is this going to be moved to the write-up section?

Originally Posted by mechguy

SlowNA06, for first timers changing plugs, the benefit of removing the two dogbone bolts is well worth it. You have probobly changed plugs more than once so you don't need to do that.

Rolling the engine forward makes the entire task that much easier, especially for a first timer. It's really not hard to do especially considering the benefit. And if the plugs have been there for a while, they need all the help they can get to get the darn things out.

Ok so how often do you change stock wires and plugs? I've never messed with mine

Yeah I did notice that my milage has been going doWn hill. Winter isn't helping but it is probably time. How much does a gapping tool run and how does that work do you just bend the end of the plug?

Originally Posted by kjohnson

Yeah I did notice that my milage has been going doWn hill. Winter isn't helping but it is probably time. How much does a gapping tool run and how does that work do you just bend the end of the plug?

The vast, vast, vast majority (if not all) of the applicable plugs come pre-gapped. There will be those that will say 'check it anyway' there are the vendors that say 'don't check it, you'll ruin it'.

I kind of cheated, I found a piece of plastic (took a bit) that was as thick as the gap and checked that way. All of my NGK's were exactly as expected.

if you roll the engine forward you you can actually see the plugs, takes all the feeling around and guessing out, 2 more bolts for easy of operation gets my vote.

So is this what you use to measure and adjust??

Amazon.com: K-Tool International (KTI73701) Spark Plug Gap Gauge Tool: Everything Else
also do you guys use a little anti seize?