Any DIY Step By Step to Change spark plugs??

**GtpKo** · 03-03-2011

If they're that hard to get off, wear gloves or you'll get a busted knuckle. And the first time I changed the plugs in my car, I didn't know what I was doing and rocking the engine forward really helped me figure it out. Take out those dog bone bolts and push the car forward and step on the e-brake to hold it there. Not necessary but a help for the first time.

Last tune-up I did, I put on some MSD wires with nice little plastic numbered rings on them so you know which wire goes where on the coil pack. From the top down, its 6,3,2,5,4,1. For the cylinder numbers, from the left to right in the front, its 1,3,5 and rear(by the windshield) left to right, its 2,4,6.

**ill12will8** · 03-03-2011

yea i already have the replacements. well imma start bright and early cuz now my car is sitting in the driveway with no front manifold, crossover or front plugs

**SlowNA06** · 03-04-2011

Shake them like they owe you money.

**h0wl0ngcanitbe** · 03-04-2011

Ok so im gonna just go ahead and change my wires cause hell it cant hurt right? Any thoughts on which ones? I like OEM but with something like wires which I think could dictate a little performance id like to learn a little more.

**Gorecki** · 03-04-2011

Originally Posted by h0wl0ngcanitbe

Ok so im gonna just go ahead and change my wires cause hell it cant hurt right? Any thoughts on which ones? I like OEM but with something like wires which I think could dictate a little performance id like to learn a little more.

This is a somewhat subject topic. In a nutshell, OE or OE equivalent wire will do the job just fine. I went with the Delphi made (who made the OE) version. Look very much the same, plug numbers in the wire, cut to length. Think I paid like $36 for the set. You can easily pay 5 times as much for wire, but you'll need wire holders as well and they will be a little more difficult to run due to thickness. So IMO, for these cars not being heavily modified the OE is the more practical choice.

**kjohnson** · 03-04-2011

Originally Posted by Gorecki

This is a somewhat subject topic. In a nutshell, OE or OE equivalent wire will do the job just fine. I went with the Delphi made (who made the OE) version. Look very much the same, plug numbers in the wire, cut to length. Think I paid like $36 for the set. You can easily pay 5 times as much for wire, but you'll need wire holders as well and they will be a little more difficult to run due to thickness. So IMO, for these cars not being heavily modified the OE is the more practical choice.

I just want to make sure Im reading this right. you only need wire holders for the fancy ones correct?

**Gorecki** · 03-04-2011

Originally Posted by kjohnson

I just want to make sure Im reading this right. you only need wire holders for the fancy ones correct?

Correct! The wire comes in thickness rated in mm and larger wire (more expensive) will not fit well in the OE wire holders (harnesses).

**TLSheff** · 03-04-2011

Originally Posted by SlowNA06

plugs: $45
wires: $30
Time: 1 hour ($90)
Total: $165

$275/hour for labor? Fvuck that.

GM AcDelcos are slightly more expensive, at least at the dealership I work at...
GM#19171849 WIRE KIT, SPLG (ACDelco #726RR) - $69.50
GM#12568387 SPARK PLUG, (ACDelco #41-101) (IRIDIUM) - $9.76(each) $58.56 for 6
And $80 per hour for labor but even at 2hrs labor time for BOTH that would be $160 so your looking at $288.06 +tax so say $300 total, but still... when you can buy the stuff, buy good tools to do it right and bond with your car on a free saturday, for LESS.... why pay it? That's why I do MY OWN work on my car, unless its major and I don't have all the tools our techs do.

Bottom line, if your not comfortable with learning what to do (considering at one point NOBODY around this forum knew what to do) let the dealership do it for you, otherwise just read, learn, and save $$$. Basic mechanics is something EVERYONE should know. I've always been the kind to say if you cant change a flat, rotate tires, and do basic maintenance, you shouldn't be driving.

We WILL help with anything, you just have to ask and let us help you

**SlowNA06** · 03-04-2011

Originally Posted by TLSheff

GM AcDelcos are slightly more expensive, at least at the dealership I work at...
GM#19171849 WIRE KIT, SPLG (ACDelco #726RR) - $69.50
GM#12568387 SPARK PLUG, (ACDelco #41-101) (IRIDIUM) - $9.76(each) $58.56 for 6
And $80 per hour for labor but even at 2hrs labor

Okay, yeah, the dealership has a 40% markup over auto parts stores (or 80% over lowest cost online vendors).

Regardless, I would consider any professional mechanic incompetent if he could not change the plugs and wires in an hour, though I admittedly don't know dealership flat-rates... it very well could be 2 hours. But "John Doe Automotive" definitely won't go flat-rate and some won't mark (as much) up on parts.

Moot argument though, since we're working towards turning these fellas into backyard mechanics. "One of us," as the saying goes.

**ill12will8** · 03-04-2011

i gots them b!tches out and the new ones it and she purrs like a kitten

**Gorecki** · 03-04-2011

Originally Posted by ill12will8

i gots them b!tches out and the new ones it and she purrs like a kitten

Someone put a tick mark on his man card, he be jammin!

**nascartech** · 03-04-2011

i just grab the metal boot with a pair of pliers and pull them off makes it easy and for a cheap alternative to acdelco u can use autolite tr55s had them in my gt and they worked good

**YMS1975** · 07-23-2011

So no pictures then eh?

**Logan541** · 07-24-2011

Originally Posted by SlowNA06

It is completely unnecessary to remove your dogbones and rock your engine to change your spark plugs (though it can be helpful). I have enormous hands and thick forearms and have no trouble changing my plugs with the following procedure, which does not involve engine rocking:

Make sure your engine is cold. I can't stress how much is sucks to do this on a hot engine. Pro Tip: park the passenger side up to a curb so you can stand on it if you're short.

Pop the hood and stand on the passenger side of the engine bay. Unplug all of the spark plug wire boots from the spark plugs. If you're going to change the wires for fresh ones, just rip them off like an animal. Otherwise, you can kinda jiggle and twist and pull. Just let the plugs hang there.

Assemble your socket wrench/knuckle/socket into Voltron. The tiger head hands really help with grip in this situation.

Lean over (don't be afraid to brace yourself on the body of the intake manifold, but be very, very careful not to lean on anything plastic because you will break it) and use your hand on the socket to guide it to a spark plug. Sometimes, you'll accidentally find one of the exhaust manifold bolts... it's okay, because you won't be able to get those off with that socket. You can use your ~*IMAGINATION*~ to locate them if you like - just look at the front spark plugs and form a picture in your mind of the probable location on the other side. Anyway, contort your body into whatever position is comfortable - it is impossible to see what you're doing, so it doesn't matter where your head faces.

Once you've got the spark plug loose, you can thread it out by hand by using a secret kung-fu grip. A dropped plug will go (almost) directly to the ground within arm's reach, so don't poo yourself if you drop it.

Then get the other two. You will use various yoga poses in this - the squealing pig, fist-in-a-cookie-jar, and the majestic mantis-ape are among the most useful.

If you can't get the front three out without further instruction, carefully, but forcefully shove the socket wrench (now Voltron) in to your ear until it protrudes from the other side of your head.

Use a gapping tool to set the proper gap on the new spark plugs to 0.60. Begin re-insertion with the rear plugs. You may need to first find the hole with your bare finger (teehee) because by now, you've forgotten where that sucker is. Using your hand, get the plug mated up to the hole (giggle) and very carefully thread it in, being careful not to use excessive force to crossthread the plug, because that'll ruin your day.

Get all three rear plugs as tight as you can with your fingers, then use Voltron to tighten them up pretty nice. Technically, you could use a toque wrench here once it's pretty tight, but I have no idea what to set it to because nobody ever bothers with that.

Anyway, do the front three the same way, except you're allowed to use your eyes.

As for the spark plug wires, I recommend removing them one at a time and then replacing them before moving on to the next wire, which ensures that you don't connect the wrong coil/cylinder combo - a magical treat that would make your engine breakdance. Oh, and the plugs just pop off those coils. Nothing special there.

Questions?

I have done this job many times and you are right I have never rocked the engine forward its more trouble then its worth only thing I would add is to use a fender protector cause it is real easy to scarpe a belt buckle on it and ruin a paint job

**SlowNA06** · 07-26-2011

Good thinkin'! Or, take off your pants.

**Gorecki** · 07-26-2011

Originally Posted by SlowNA06

Good thinkin'! Or, take off your pants.

I understand lovin a car but isn't that just a bit much?

**YMS1975** · 08-06-2011

I know this is an old post, but I'm kind of in a jam here. I took the dog bones off but the engine moved backwards (making access to the spark plugs even HARDER). Now I can't get the holes to align with the bolts. Can anybody help?

**Scottydoggs** · 08-06-2011

set your e brake, don't start the car, but put the car in neutral, that should free it up for you.

**Gorecki** · 08-06-2011

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

set your e brake, don't start the car, but put the car in neutral, that should free it up for you.

Also, rocking the car forward taking up the transaxle play and using the ebrake or tire stops to keep it forward. I found if possible parking it on a slight down hill makes this easier.

**YMS1975** · 08-06-2011

Thanks for the help guys. I kinda went into panic mode when I posted that message. It was my first time doing the spark plugs on this car, and it was a real pain. I had read earlier posts about removing the dog bones. I forget who it was (and I'm too lazy to scroll up...hee hee) but somebody said there was no need to remove the dog bones. I should have followed his/her advice. But when I looked at the back of the engine I thought to myself : There's no way I can do this with such limited visibility.

So I removed the dog bones and wow, that made things MUCH MUCH WORSE. The engine slipped backwards giving me even less visibility. I stood there for like a minute and like 10 seconds later that's when it hit me. I actually said "Son of a *****" out loud.

My neighbour to the right heard this, he starts to laugh and he introduces himself (I've only been at my house for a little over a month now), He walks over, asks what happened, I told him and he assesed the situation. My neighbour to the left was also out. He overheard us and he walked over. They both grabbed one side and started to pull forward as I slid the bolts in. Both guys were very kind; apparently they're family. LOL.

So....I changed the plugs, but now.....I'm noticing that the engine is making like a funny sound like it's struggling. I double checked the order of the wires and that they were secure. So.....I'm a bit confused.

One of them looked at it and said it appears to be coming from the belt. But, that sound never happened before so.....I'm a bit lost. Any suggestions????