Thread: rear window regulator/motor install write up

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  1. #1 rear window regulator/motor install write up 
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    Fellas:

    I need to install one but I can't find a write up. Has anyone done this or can you point me to a write up on it?

    Thanks, Dean

    Geez, this guy has been on here for one whole post and is already asking questions.
    2k1 GTP Sedan, Black. 3.4, FWI, 180, PT, Borla, Headers, AL104's, GMPP handling kit, Vogtland/ AGX, 12 in brakes/SS lines/ Hawk HPS, 1.9's
    2k4 Maxima SE A5 Black, K&N, wifes
    PEMs and two 3" DP for sale.
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  2. #2  
    I live here. SyntheticShield's Avatar
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    No kidding. Its all about you you you isnt it? Geeesh.


    Well now to answer your question, I havent ever seen one. I must admit I havent searched real hard for that one in particular either. But if you find one, bring it over or email it to me and we'll get it posted up. Just include the link to where you found it, any author information you can find as well so everyone gets credit for the work they have done.
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  3. #3  
    I say it with pictures Abrasive's Avatar
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    Next time I get one in the shop, I'll be sure to get some pics. No telling when that could be though.

    Master Certified Auto Glass Technician - 23+ yrs in the biz.
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    I live here. UR LOSN's Avatar
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    I need to replace the RR in my GTP. I'll see if I cant snap some pics when I bing it home.
    2001 GTP- PT76 turbo, Intense Drag cars old engine, Stage 4 Intense turbo cam,FMIC,150 wet,Double roller timing chain,Diamond forged coated pistons 8:0:1,Diamond piston rings,Cryoed L32 connecting rods,Cryoed crank,Clevite77 main bearings,Clevite77 cam bearings,Clevite77 L32 rod bearings,ARP Everything, Intense/meizere true billet Flexplate,Intense Wilson UIM/LIM,Intense oil pressure kit,Cometic,OE-R lifters,Cryoed L67 block,ATI turbo dampner,80# inject,Weldon 2035 fp,Aero Fuel Rails,AL cradle
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  5. #5  
    GTP Level Member 03GPScottyd's Avatar
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    http://www.grandprixforums.net/f73/c...s-off-464.html

    I can probably talk you through it, done it enough times. Is the motor itself not working, is the cable off the track but the motor still works or when you hit the switch nothing works at all.

    Best thing to do is take off the door panel first to see what the problem is. You will need a set of 6 star screwdrivers or Autozone has a set that will hook onto your socket set. I suggest the socket set because it has about 10 different sizes.

    To take the panel off you'll notice two caps under the door handle area. Carefully remove them and use a flashlight to see the screws inside then you'll know what I'm talking about when I say star screwdrivers (don't know the official name for them) the outside edges of the door panel have little plastic plugs that hold it tight to the door frame.

    Once the panel is off there is a piece of plastic glued to the frame. As you pull it away from the door frame the glue will tend to stretch with it. Take your finger and break the string and restick it to the door. You'll need it there when you put the plastic back. Try to put it back on the existing glue to build up a mound. You'll see when you get there.

    Then try the switch on the door to see what the problem is, motor or cable.

    The motor is bolted to the door frame by 2 or three bolts. The cable runs from the black plastic housing on the motor to the window regulator. The window regulator is bolted to the door frame by 4 bolts and the window is bolted to the frame by two bolts. To get the window away from the frame lower it till you get access to the two bolts and then remove. Don't take the window out of the door, just push it back up and use duct tape to hold it all the way up.

    If it's just the motor you can order one from Ed Morad and then replace. If its the cable loose because one of the plastic guides is off you can use the link above to dissasemble and order just the clip you need from Ed or order a new/used frame from Ed.

    If you want just the motor or frame you can dissasemble the motor/frame from each other by removing 3 bolts that hold the black plastic housing to the motor. Be careful when you do this. put a screwdriver between the motor and housing to keep the white plastic sprocket inside the black plastic housing or you'll definitely need the link above.

    Usually when a window goes out it's the cable getting stuck or misaligned in the black plastic housing or a guide has broken, you'll have to determine this yourself. If the motor doesn't work or the motor works but the cable is loose from the frame I'd suggest ordering a motor or frame from Ed before you take everything apart because trying to rig the window to stay up after you've taken everything apart is a pain till the new part arrives.

    Any questions just PM me!
    Last edited by 03GPScottyd; 12-31-2007 at 12:23 AM. Reason: Added some extra detail, wish I had pics
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  6. #6 Re: rear window regulator/motor install write up 
    SE Level Member GEMINIokc's Avatar
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    (don't know the official name for them)[/QUOTE]

    They are called Torx stars
    UPDATED MODS....GreenBastard HP powertune, CAI, BlueGTP91 Engine bay detail, Finished painted Dash,Hogans Performance DP, Flow Master 40's, Still Missing driver side badge 4 weight reduction.... More Mods Coming Soon!!
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  7. #7 Re: rear window regulator/motor install write up 
    GT Level Member andremike's Avatar
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    how much are all the parts? I was quoted $340.00 to replace..(inc labor)
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  8. #8 Re: rear window regulator/motor install write up 
    GTP Level Member SnowDrift's Avatar
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    Just a tip - buy and install new door panel clips so your door panel fits nice and tight when you're done. Dorman part number to fit our cars is 799-125. It's a box of 15 pcs and you'll only need about 10 or so for one panel.

    Regulators are around $125-140 or so, depending on what company makes it. My recommendation is to NOT buy the cheaper ones in the $40-60 range because you WILL get what you pay for. The quality is night and day between the two types. I've replaced them in 3 of my four doors and the last two I purchased were A1 Cardone brand.

    It really isn't a bad job at all. If you have an open end/box end 10mm to take the bolts out of the window, itself, then it will be easy. It's very straight forward.
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