Thread: Bad fuel pump equals repeated blowing of fuel pump fuses?

Car is a 2000 Grand Prix GT with about 160K on the odometer.

Car keeps blowing fuel pump fuses. Pulled the battery out, and the fuse block (under the hood) out and cant see any obvious exposed, frayed or shorted wires. Car is pretty clean for the age.

Would a bad fuel pump pull too much current and keep popping fuses?

I replaced the fuse, got about two blocks and it popped again. NOW, I cant even start the car as for as soon as I turn the key to start, the fuse pops again. Any underwood ground wires I should be know about that would effect things??

Thanks for the help. Need to get the car back on road by work tomorrow. LOL. FML....

Ps. searched this forum and youtube. Things pointing to a new fuel pump, but it's an expensive repair if its not the right call.

could be damaged wires under the car, or at the gas pump, 2000 year has a trap door in the trunk to get to the pump. and check things out.

one of them digital multi meter (DMM) things work great for finding shorts if you know how to use it right.

Thanks. Sound advice. I got a multi-meter gizmo from HarborFreight. Not sure if it’s something that can work. I went ahead and ordered thefuel pump thru Rock Auto for about $130. Takes a day to get here and locallythe price was double and still a one day order to get it. Nuts.

I’ll open up the pump panel door this afternoon and take alook.

Curious – what’s the path of the fuel pump wire? Does it gofrom Fuse block inside cabin to rear of car? I just put in some rear new 6X9speakers two weeks ago – trying to think if I could have done something tointerfere like pinching a wire, etc. I pulled the top and bottom of the rearseats naturally.

its hard to tell really, but seems like the wires go into the cab and run through the car body.

back in the day you just bought a new pump replaced it in the old canister vs spending 200 for the whole thing. local parts stores stopped selling just the pump, but ebay sells them for under 50 still. food for thought should there be a next time.

and you'll likely be cutting off the plug and splicing the new one on if your still on the factory pump and canister. new canister comes with all you need.

The wires run through the cabin under the carpet. A bad pump can cause the fuse to trip

Originally Posted by GTPpower

The wires run through the cabin under the carpet. A bad pump can cause the fuse to trip

Nice, that's what I was hoping to hear. I hate chasing electrical gremlins. Pump will be delivered tonight and I'll swap her out.

I'll pull back carpet by front passenger foot well too. Google search found a guy whose wire loom bulk head was all chewed and exposed wires. If I can find the link again, I'll repost. it was gnarly looking.

http://i0.wp.com/104.197.77.209/wp-c.../montana-1.png

If the pump doesn't solve your problem, you can buy a fuel pump rewire and install. It's a good mod for even a stock car. It's good for the pump.

Well, FML. I installed a new fuel pump (spectra via rockauto) and a new relay. Car started andas soon as I put the car in gear car stalls. Fuel pump fuse blows again!

So I literally felt/traced the wires from the pump, to the grommeton the truck floor, up into the inside of the trunk floor, back seat, side ofcar under seats all the way to front firewall. THEN into the wirewall and tothe fuse block. For the life of me cannot find any type of wire being groundedof fray’d.

My next move would be to two the car to a local shop butwithout having a local guy I totally trust, I’m a little hesitant. Got a fewrecommendations from some friends.

I researched this hot wire kit and sounds like that is goingto be the ticket. I’m actually pleasantly surprised how easy it was to swap thefuel pump on this car. I’m used to swapping the pump on my 1987 Trans AM, whichmeans dropping the axle then the tank. Not fun at all.

I ordered the racetronix and its on it way. Looks like thebetter of the hot wires offered.

With the money I would have spent to have a guy try to findthe short, I’m sure the money spent on the hot wire kit will still be thecheaper alternative.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPWH-025&eq=&Tp=

The racetronix is the best rewire available, so good call.

I used the Caspers Fuel pump rewire and It has lasted and a nice clean install. It looks a lot like the racetronix one, about the same price also..

Nice. I got the Racetronixs in the mail last night. Paid extra for fast delivery and cant work on the car cause of the constant raining. FML.

Wire and instructions look pretty legit. Clean. One week without my car running. This had better work! I'm planning on putting in some stereo equipment and now all this fuse drama. Dang.

Have you done the alternator to fuse box rewire yet? Might be a good time to do it. Also make sure all your grounds are good. The one below the fuse box and the one above the starter area.

Originally Posted by rickisrad

Have you done the alternator to fuse box rewire yet? Might be a good time to do it. Also make sure all your grounds are good. The one below the fuse box and the one above the starter area.

Ok, ok, cool. No, haven't done this yet but wow, looks like I should.

http://zzperformance.com/3800/wire-h...wer-cable.html

Looks like a nice set up, but I have some 4awg wire left over from my stereo stuff. Looks like I'll have to knock this one out too. Good feedback reviews above with regard to the alt-rewire too.

Grounds? I'll have to check!!

you can go to the local parts store and buy a battery cable just like that. and not pay zzp's shipping. they got em pre made with eyelets on both sides in many lengths from short to long.

in the end thats one 3 rd of whats called "the big 3". you can look that up on youtube, theres vids, and a thread or two here that cover how to do it.

Yes it is easily done with the cables from the parts store. You already have 4awg so even better.

Well, my weekend sucked. Installed the Hotwire kit. It's pretty neat but didn't fix my problem. The kit still utilizes the circuit to some capacity. It's not exactly plug and play as you have to do some re-pinning (not to diffuclte, but just have to jack up car and get under trunk floor to access rear bulk, which stock huge mufflers make the job harder).

So I had the set up all wired in and wouldn't start. Replaced the fuel pump fuse and car started up. Few minutes later fuse blew again. Hot wire gets bulk of power from "alternator" to pump directly, but still needs the relay to be powered on by the OEM fuel pump "circuit".

Towing car to shop later tonight in hopes they can find what's the matter. I'm done.

As a side note, I got some 0 AWG wire laid down from the engine compartment to the trunk of the car (for future car stereo install). Whoot.

one old school trick comes to mind. remove the fuse install a jumper and then start the car and wait for some thing to smoke. where the smoke is found is likely the cause of the blown fuse.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPWH-025&Tp=


Haha. I like your style ScottyD’, but I’m already nervousabout these shenanigans as it is. Perhaps if it was someone else’s car I’d gothat route. LOL.
Wondering – check out that link above and look at the schematicof the plug/harness. I pulled the “A & C” pins and ran those directly tothe pump/hotwire. It’s the OEM positive and negative. What if I run my own wire(a second wire) to say a “add a fuse” to the cigarette liter or wipers and runpower to power the relay. That way I’m not relying on the power from the car’s “fuelpump” fuse circuit. Again, the hotwire goes to the alternator and gets theheavy load from there. I’d just be running a new wire to the harness, which I’mguessing powers something else right? The level sensor??

When the fuse pops, its turning off the fuel pump becausethe relay is tied to the fuel pump fuse circuit. What if I just run my own wireand totally bypass things??

Originally Posted by ILMODC

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPWH-025&Tp=


Haha. I like your style ScottyD’, but I’m already nervousabout these shenanigans as it is. Perhaps if it was someone else’s car I’d gothat route. LOL.
Wondering – check out that link above and look at the schematicof the plug/harness. I pulled the “A & C” pins and ran those directly tothe pump/hotwire. It’s the OEM positive and negative. What if I run my own wire(a second wire) to say a “add a fuse” to the cigarette liter or wipers and runpower to power the relay. That way I’m not relying on the power from the car’s “fuelpump” fuse circuit. Again, the hotwire goes to the alternator and gets theheavy load from there. I’d just be running a new wire to the harness, which I’mguessing powers something else right? The level sensor??

When the fuse pops, its turning off the fuel pump becausethe relay is tied to the fuel pump fuse circuit. What if I just run my own wireand totally bypass things??

....which is kinda what I thought the "hot wire" was supposed to do in the first place. I'm guessing the "fuel pump fuse circuit" still needs to power the fuel level sensor, etc is what I'm saying.