Thread: Water Pump tips?

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  1. #1 Water Pump tips? 
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    After chasing down and fixing other coolant leaks, the water pump finally gave out. I knew it's day was coming... and now it has.


    Any tips that would be handy before I get into it? Other things I need to replace/check while i'm in there?


    Any brands to stay away from?
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  2. #2 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    just so you know going in, the p/s pump needs to come off, and if your a gtp the lower sc belt idler needs to come off, it could be a t55 or a 15 mm. you'll want to see what you got before you start the job or you'll be stuck. the pump and that pulley block the long bolts from coming all the way out.

    i lake to break the 4 w/p pulley bolts free, then re move the belt, reverse that when finishing up.

    clean the timing cover of old gasket and use a dry gasket. and thread sealant on the 4 long bolts, coolant will come out the block when you remove them. why you need new sealant.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Water Pump tips? 
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    Alrighty, good to know.

    Maybe I'm do the coupler now too...

    Thanks for the notes
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  4. #4 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    If you choose to do the coupler, pull the alternator and the alt bracket. Do the coolant elbows while you were there and you'll be able to get at the bolts easier.

    Scott mentions pulling the pulley. The stand that the pulley bolts to is still partially in the way. I like to grind a little of the area to get to the bolt w/o pulling the stand. If you pull that stand, make sure you keep those bolts with it. They are slightly different thread than the rest. Also seal them again when putting them in.

    A hose clamp tool is great to have for the lower hose.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  5. #5 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I also use this method to remove the bolts on the pump

    Loosening a water pump pulley - YouTube
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  6. #6 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    breaking the little w/p pulley bolts free then removing the belt is the easiest way by far. i think you'd have a hard time getting a screw driver to lock on our little bolts. iirc they are 8 mm?

    and i was able to wiggle past the idler stand, no big deal really.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    It's simple and quick believe it or not. Plus then you know you have them locked back down when tightening.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #8 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ive used the belt many times. 3 years later, still tight.

    if you forget to make em tight "like i did once" it kinda sounds like a rod knock lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Yeah..was on the call for that one !

    My way.. you do it before the belt and the pulley is nice and tight. No worries, no mistakes.....no potential worry of rod knock.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  10. #10 Re: Water Pump tips? 
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    Alright.


    Howe the F*** does the supercharger idler come off? Mine is a torx (it's a T45 btw, not t55) and it WILL NOT budge. It rounded off the damn bit. Now here I am so close yet so far stuck in the damn form parking lot


    Any ideas?
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  11. #11 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    lefty loosey

    righty tighty.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #12 Re: Water Pump tips? 
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    It destroyed the T45 I borrowed from a friend, and when I got a better, high quality one the bolt just starting stripping to hell.

    Why the hell didn't they just use a bolt. WHY TORX
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  13. #13 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    actually, some do come with a bolt. torx do kinda suck.

    try a few taps with a hammer. might help break it free with a new bit.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  14. #14 Re: Water Pump tips? 
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    Well.

    As I have no access to heat, or a proper drill or easy out or really anything... I tried some JB weld on the t45 (not rounded one) and shoved it in. Whole thing was totally filled. It set for 18 hours. Probably should have waited longer I suppose, but it just broke free and spun happily in it's little stripped out hole.


    I do however have a Sawzall in my truck ...


    Plan now is to chop that pulley off, replace the water pump and drive home without the beloved supercharger. Where i'll weld a big ole nut on and breaker bar that **** off..........




    Ya know, after I finish studying for finals

    -_-
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  15. #15 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Scott.. take another look at which way that pulley spins.. are you sure it's lefty loosey?
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  16. #16 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Because.. I could go double check it.. but I am thinking.. it's only been 3 years since I've touched one and I believe it to be opposite.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  17. #17 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    all of mine are normal threads. ive heard of H bodys having reversed threads on one pulley.
    Last edited by Scottydoggs; 04-28-2018 at 05:00 PM.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  18. #18 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    There's def one on H bodies. I really thought there was one on W as well. Like I said.. it's been a while. I'll be wrong again tomorrow. lol
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  19. #19 Re: Water Pump tips? 
    LaBarge Supercharged sseilmnop's Avatar
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    Left hand thread in tensioner pulleys W and H.

    W are a hex
    H are a crappy torx
    Adapters, Phenolic Intercoolers, Supercharger Parts & TVS2300
    http://stores.ebay.com/QualitySuperchargers
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  20. #20 Re: Water Pump tips? 
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    Pretty sure it's regular thread (I tried both anyway....), it's the idler not the tensioner, I haven't gotten around to it yet (midterms) but i'm going to just murder the pulley and leave the bolt be and run with no sc for until I can get a nut welded on then i'll warm up the engine (maybe that will help) and hope a breaker bar gets it out. I really don't want to snap it and have to drill it in that tight spot...

    part number on that pulley? and maybe the bolt? (Preferably one with a hex...)
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