Thread: Bilstein Coilovers

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  1. #141 Re: Bilstein Coilovers 
    GXP Level Member 91parkave's Avatar
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    I was thinking of punching out the studs on the plate and drilling on the plate so you could have caster and camber adjustment by just removing the mount bolts and moving back or side to side and and put the bolts back in
    06 GXP | 222/227 cam/cartuning turbo kit on 8psi/meth/e85 coilovers/ still on stock trans at 130k
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  2. #142 Re: Bilstein Coilovers 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    with my thoughts you would slot the strut to knuckle upper hole and use the clamp plates to adjust for the camber you want and then weld the plates to the strut and that finishes off your knuckle side.
    from there you can use a standard camber bolt for small adjustments.
    the top would just be moved in far enough that with coilovers you can get an extra half to three quarters of an inch clearance to some fat rubber
    ~James~ Psychotic Gearhead
    projects: 84 Cressida waGN~ 90 LN3 3800, equal length headers, T70, 89 700r4, misc parts,
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  3. #143 Re: Bilstein Coilovers 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    the beauty of laying the strut back at a higher angle. . is the rate of positive camber gain from level control arms (lowered) compressing is slightly neggated
    ~James~ Psychotic Gearhead
    projects: 84 Cressida waGN~ 90 LN3 3800, equal length headers, T70, 89 700r4, misc parts,
    1994 Oldsmobile 442 (462ci-4wd-2 engines) L67/4t80e^2,
    00 Turbo Regal 608 fwhp 575ftlbs at 5500rpm, 98 WhippledRiv, 97 GTP
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  4. #144 Re: Bilstein Coilovers 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    haha
    i found my sn95 cc plates so i can finally cut em to weld em in the TRs oe upper plates.
    looking at the stack height im probably going to end up with the strut rod close to .5" higher than oe. but that can be adjusted by the adaptor sleeves/collars
    ~James~ Psychotic Gearhead
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  5. #145 Re: Bilstein Coilovers 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sandman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91parkave View Post
    I was thinking of punching out the studs on the plate and drilling on the plate so you could have caster and camber adjustment by just removing the mount bolts and moving back or side to side and and put the bolts back in
    I was going to do this then take another plate, cut out the whole center, use that to hold the bolts. I got one plate cut out, then I just decided to reem the strut holes since it's easier to do. Somehow I gave it enough on each side and identical to where the guy just had to adjust for toe.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLSheff View Post
    You said "I'm done with it"... car says "Oh, really? *trollface*"
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