Thread: CV Axle question

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  1. #1 CV Axle question 
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    Just got a 1998 GTP yesterday and was going over the things that I will need to fix. There is a pretty hellatious vibration below 45mph when the car is turning left. After about 45-50mph it goes away and is fine. Was looking at the passenger CV axle and it is the one that has the 3 "spokes" on the transmission side.

    I have a pretty good feeling this is what is going on with the car, since the vibration is more towards the center than the wheels. Question is, how far out of the transmission should the shaft stick out before it gets to the 3 "spokes" of the bearing housing of the axle (right before the 1st boot). I ask this because I can see a good 2-3 inches of shaft, should it just butt right up against the transmission?
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  2. #2 Re: CV Axle question 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    Pics?
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  3. #3 Re: CV Axle question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    pics? not sure what you mean about the spokes? its a spline shaft at the end.

    try rotating the tires front to back, tires do this too.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: CV Axle question 
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    yeah i wanted to get some pics but the daylight ran out.


    this is the best i could find, but i can clearly see a good portion of the polished end that goes into the transmission. The boots are all in perfect condition and I'm scared that if it has worked itself out it may have destroyed the receiving end on the transmission. Should that butt right up to the trans?

    I'll try to get a good pic tomorrow of exactly what it looks like.
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  5. #5 Re: CV Axle question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    see that rust line on the shaft? thats how far out it should be.

    its normal that it moves in and out a bit.

    and it cant really work its way out. its clipped in there, it has to be popped out after the other side is out of the hub.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: CV Axle question 
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    I'll get some pics tomorrow, also i'll rotate the tires to see if that helps as well. IF all is well with the axle and the tires rotation doesn't help, I'll start looking into the bearing, but i don't think its that. I'm also going to check for play in the tie rods and see how the bushings are.
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  7. #7 Re: CV Axle question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    being its a new to you car, its best to give it a once over. do all your maintenance so you have your own records to go off, tune up, oil change, trans service. check the brakes out, change the brake fluid too, that never gets changed.

    lim gaskets should checked to see if they are plastic or not, the new gaskets are metal.

    and hubs dont vibrate usually, they will hum or get play in them and then they set the abs light cause the sensor is built into the hub.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: CV Axle question 
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    i def need to get new pads and rotors, I also need to change the valve cover gaskets, i have seen some leakage there, will tackle the lim while i'm in there as well. There is a power steering leak somewhere but i need to give the engine bay, undercarriage, and wheel wells a good scrubbing. has 163k on it and the it was the guy i got it from's kid, and he didn't take great care of it. But trans shifts smooth and the engine runs good, just need to get the quirks out.
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  9. #9 Re: CV Axle question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    sounds about right. they all need work to get the road worthy.


    lord knows my car was not given two craps about by 8 owners before i got it. ( so 8 times it got abused/ maint not done is how i look at it) like they didnt think oil changes were needed.

    how black mine was inside when i did my lim gaskets.



    your brakes. as long as you need rotors. look into up grading the fronts to f body calipers. its a world of a difference in stopping . like night and day really.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  10. #10 Re: CV Axle question 
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    how did you go about getting all of that buildup out of there? did you pull it all and scrub it out? i need a scrub down like i said of the engine, but i'm terrified of blasting it out with a pressure washer. What is the best way to get everything out of there? Just avoid alt, coil packs, and spark plugs? or just get an engine degreasing spray and low pressure hose?
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  11. #11 Re: CV Axle question 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you dont do a thing to the inside but remove any sludge with a rag. if you find any.

    just doing regular oil changes will help clean that up.

    just like you, my rear vc was leaking when i got it, the rockers were jet black. then a year or so later i did my lim gaskets, and the rockers were much cleaner after a oil change every 3,000 miles.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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