Thread: Bilstein Coilovers

they go through camber change when the suspension compresses.

looks like a good start to a nice spherical bearing upper mount. using rubber/poly as your flex joint is always silly.

you ge tthe ebay junk yet?

Yea sure did the plate is about a half inch in diameter to small to use for our cars so I have to return them and find another solution

well ****, just redrill 2 holes and use one oem

Could weld tabs but I don't want that kind of worry

cut out the middle of the OEM plates and bolt that to the OEM plate

Nope that's the absolute biggest they have. I asked the rep already.. So freaking close too.

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

cut out the middle of the OEM plates and bolt that to the OEM plate

I've thought about it. But it would probably take away from the either the OEM plate or the camber plates strength.

Here are more pics for reference

Hmm I'll have to look more at it when I get on the computer.. Maybe just have to go another route and buy a bigger one from another seller then cut and trim if needed..

Yea maybe cut out the middle.. Trim the plate just a tad bit around where the studs would go and then weld the plates together.

Originally Posted by 91parkave

I've thought about it. But it would probably take away from the either the OEM plate or the camber plates strength.

Here are more pics for reference

you just drill the oem plate and countersink it a little for some flush head bolts.

keep in mind the weight is all gravity, and cornering loads are at the end of a long lever (no leverage)

i just know that the oem strut tower has plenty of meat for you to drill 3 or 4 new holes closer to the strut centerline (within the dia of that plate)

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

you just drill the oem plate and countersink it a little for some flush head bolts.

keep in mind the weight is all gravity, and cornering loads are at the end of a long lever (no leverage)

i just know that the oem strut tower has plenty of meat for you to drill 3 or 4 new holes closer to the strut centerline (within the dia of that plate)

Well as usual your right , on my to return these to the post office and decided to see if the strut tower had the clearnence. A detail that I never thought of for some reason. I can utilize a 4 bolt setup for the plate to body and drill the stb brace but leave it as is. Should be a super strong setup.



The stack will look like this. I'm pretty excited now

Now I just need to get my measurements symmetrical and drill.

quit bein a pessimistic ***** communist and get it done

Heres the deal on the plates, measuring is key, everything else will be plug in play for asny shock we currently use, the universal camber plate comes with bushings already, all that is required id drilling the threaded one out till there are no threads and the factory nut goes on top.




The great thing now is that the thrust bearings can go up top on the spring hats, when i find time in the future ill order another set of thrust bearings and put them on bottom as well.





you then end up like this, I would highly recomend helper springs or going back to 12" springs.




If i could do it over again i would have made a template, which i still probably do of the factory mount and had that cut out on some aluminum plate and bolted it all together for more contact surface on the strut tower

it would be real easy for me to water jet that out of aluminum

O really now??

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Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

it would be real easy for me to water jet that out of aluminum

Let's do it t then

yeah till ya s*** a brick at the cost of the material