Thread: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes

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  1. #1 The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Since I've now done the swap I figured its time I give a little write up on what you need and how to do it.

    In lieu of CTS-V calipers, you can use G8 GXP calipers or '10 Camaro SS calipers, they all are pretty much identical to each other.

    This is a thread to branch of this thread of where I did my research and gathered parts:
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/14-br...uss-41856.html

    What you need:
    -Tools (duh)
    -CTS-V front calipers (4 Piston, and need to be complete with pins and brake pad bracket)
    -F-body or CTS-V Banjo Bolt
    -CTS-V Caliper bolts
    -ZZP Extended SS Lines
    -CTS-V brake pads
    -2005 Mustang GT500 Rotors (Centric One piece will work well and are CHEAP)Get it on RockAuto Part # 12061089
    -4 x 12mm Flat washers (buy 2 packs of 5 just incase)
    -4 x 14MM bushing
    McMaster-Carr
    Part# 6679K16 Desc: Metric Steel-Backed PTFE-Coated Brnz Bearing for 12 mm Shaft Diameter, 15 mm Length Price: $2.45/each Qty: 4 (Grand Prix's have 14mm bolts and CTS-V's use 12mm Bolts)

    Suggestions:
    You MUST have 18" wheels for this upgrade PERIOD. You CAN NOT run 17s. I also suggest that the wheels be 35mm offset or less, 40mm might be close but it could be doable if the spokes are setup right. On my car the spokes are about 5-8mm away and I’m running a 32mm offset.

    How-to do it:
    Well lets start off getting all your old brake setup off the car. Rotor, Caliper, Caliper Bracket, Pads...GONE!

    I Started by getting the new brake lines on first since for most of us this part suck, mine were so rusted on that the nut shaped end on mine is completely gone. Vice Grips work wonders with a spray of PB Blaster (Thanks Bill). On the passenger it’s easy since your turning it a direction that won't bend the flimsy bracket. On the Driver’s side the bracket will bend easy, so bend it out a little and jam a flat head screw driver between the strut and bracket and start turning. Sorry I don't have a picture of the demonstration of brake line change out, but it’s pretty obvious when you are doing it. One you do get the hard line removed, take bracket off, pull the clip (I used a thin screw driver and worked it one side at a time) and then install the new line in reverse order. Should look like this when done:




    Okay so now the new lines are in. Time to move on, put the rotor on and use a lug nut to hold it on.



    From there, I already had the Sleeves for the caliper bolts from my last brake setup, but if you don’t now is the time to put them in. They slide right in real easy. At this point I then slide the bolts in and just had them poke out just enough that I could install the washer on them. Now my passenger side with one washer was the perfect fit, on my driver’s side one washer was enough but it wasn’t perfectly center over the rotor, maybe a hair off, so I suggest you use your best judgment and if you need to run 2 washers, run 2 washers. There is a narrow window for this rotor to slip between the calipers as the pictures demonstrate below. From there I put caliper on and finger tightened them as much as I could and then tightened the rest of the way with a wrench.





    From there, I put the banjo bolt through the line and tightened it down. I wish I had gotten a picture, but these lines have only one way they can go. When you pull them in place you will see what I mean. Instead of the traditional way of doing it where the angled elbow piece points out, you want it to use that angle piece sort of upside down, I guess is the way to say it, it fits beautifully this way and keeps the line away from the wheel.


    Now the next part is to get the pads in place, I don’t really have a write up for it, but I do have a link for it, this should get you going on putting the pads in and how to pull those pins. He also tells you in what order you should bleed these beauties in. I did passenger’s side first and then bleed the Inner than Outer bleeder, then did the Driver’s side next and bleed the Inner then outer bleeder.

    Link here:
    CTS-CTS-V FAQ: Brake Pad Change instructions

    But when you are finished, you will have something like this:




    I’m going to go out on a limb here but you could probably run Z06 calipers too with these same instructions, it’s just…have you priced Z06 calipers lately…they be expensive!


    **Note: I didn't reread this and my grammar sucks on first drafts**
    Last edited by MrPoopyButthole; 04-21-2013 at 10:29 AM.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
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  2. #2 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GrandPrix Junkie dpzelenak's Avatar
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    very nice, car looks amazing btw, one question is this the same on the 97-03's to or just the 04+?

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  3. #3 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpzelenak View Post
    very nice, car looks amazing btw, one question is this the same on the 97-03's to or just the 04+?
    Its the Same. They share the same knuckles.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
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  4. #4 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GrandPrix Junkie dpzelenak's Avatar
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    great thanks, now all i need is some money
    i was thinking of doing the f-body brakes first then the gxp brakes but now i think im just gonna jump ahead and go with these

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  5. #5 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    just remember you need a set of 18's for these that have a less than 35mm offset

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
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  6. #6 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GrandPrix Junkie dpzelenak's Avatar
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    yea i plan on getting some when i go to buy new tires(summer time) now when you say less then 35 you mean like 40 or 45 offset right

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  7. #7 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpzelenak View Post
    yea i plan on getting some when i go to buy new tires(summer time) now when you say less then 35 you mean like 40 or 45 offset right
    no, less than 35 would be the other direction, 30mm 32mm.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  8. #8 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GrandPrix Junkie dpzelenak's Avatar
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    oh ok i got the whole positive and negitive offset thing messed up,
    thanks

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  9. #9 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GT Level Member Lenny's Avatar
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    something to add to things you will need: something to scrape or peel your face off the windshield
    2007 Grand Prix GXP

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  10. #10 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    top 5 dead or alive OmegaRed's Avatar
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    thank you 16 million times for making an official write up for this, i have a feeling you have led the way and will now see a flood of this mod being done...

    (guilty)

    also, drunkie if you get a chance and know someone, you should test fit a gxp rim to see if they clear
    Last edited by OmegaRed; 05-04-2011 at 05:21 PM.
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  11. #11 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    been having a few questions so I am going to post up a selection from my recent post of question to help make sure I cover all bases.

    Drunkie, a few questions if you don't mind. Sorry, but i've read these 2 threads a few times and didn't seem to find a clear answer.

    Is the caliper and caliper bracket one piece on these calipers? I assume you are using the caliper bracket that comes with the CTSV calipers?

    Where did you buy the rotors from? Have a link or name to the website?

    What car did the brake pads come from? Were they for a ctsv?

    Most importantly, do you think you could measure the length from the most outside part of the caliper to the other side of the rotor?

    I want to know if these will fit with my current 18" rims. Looking at pics it's impossible to tell.

    CTS-V Calipers are all one piece which makes it really nice and easy to do.

    I got my rotors from RockAuto. Search for a Centric Part # 12061089. They fit perfectly on the hub but they fit like F-body rotors with the studs but its not big deal really. They are all prepainted so you won't ever see rust. I also think they are Zinc plated as well so no rust ever on the face of them. I'm looking for a 2-piece option, but only slotted, I don't believe in Drilled rotors.

    The pads are from a CTS-V (2005), My pads are Napa Gold(Premium) pads, they were $66 before taxes IIRC. I was going to get some Hawk HPS pads since I have a Hawk fetish but didn't because after doing some research and finding out that they suck with these calipers.

    I will take a measurement next time I have the wheels off the car, but that won't be until Wednesday when I am off from work, but I will let you know. But they should clear all 18s with a low enough offset, I have a 32mm offset.

    I should also point again, ZZP extended length lines are a MUST, there is no way you could run stock length.

    I am going to take more pictures of how I installed the brake line and other little things and post them all up in that thread when I get a chance

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  12. #12 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Some more pictures:



    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  13. #13 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    GrandPrix Junkie PurpleGuy's Avatar
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    How have I missed this thread for an entire week?
    2001 Regal GS, PLOG, 3" DP, 1.9's/L76 springs. 21* of timing on a 3.4"
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  14. #14 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    I just found out that if you go with 2010+ Camaro SS calipers, they run 14mm bolts so you won't need the sleeves.

    I think the Camaro SS uses the G8 GXP calipers too...but I'm not sure.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  15. #15 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    SE Level Member lamus04's Avatar
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    Now thats sexy! All together how much did this run you? Also, I'm running 19's with a 45mm offset but looking at my wheels and how the spokes stick out I should be able to fit these bad boys on there.
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  16. #16 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    This thread really has be thinking now. If you can bolt LS1 brakes right on to the GP spindle with a adapter bushing, and the bigger CTS-V calipers bolt right on to the GP spindle with the same bushing........this means I can effectively bolt the CTS-V caliper to my LS1 spindle in my 98 TA without any adapters and run a 14" rotor?

    I currently run C6 13" brakes with an adapter bracket, but now I'm really thinking a 4-piston caliper would be awesome.
    Mine: 1998 Trans Am - 6.0L and T56 swap, C6 brakes, nitrous, not slow
    Brother 1: 1998 Grand Prix GT 2-door - 3.8L SC and 5-spd manual swap coming soon
    Brother 2: 2000 Grand Prix GTP 4-door - stock until he learns to stop breaking his junk.
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  17. #17 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4birdman View Post
    This thread really has be thinking now. If you can bolt LS1 brakes right on to the GP spindle with a adapter bushing, and the bigger CTS-V calipers bolt right on to the GP spindle with the same bushing........this means I can effectively bolt the CTS-V caliper to my LS1 spindle in my 98 TA without any adapters and run a 14" rotor?

    I currently run C6 13" brakes with an adapter bracket, but now I'm really thinking a 4-piston caliper would be awesome.
    The whole CTS-V idea was spawned because you F-body guys were doing it, except you guys run the same bolt pattern as a vette or CTS-V, so you can just run Z06 Rotors. Our hardest part was finding a Rotor that fit these brakes and our cars.

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  18. #18 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    #Billsnamechangessuck MrPoopyButthole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lamus04 View Post
    Now thats sexy! All together how much did this run you? Also, I'm running 19's with a 45mm offset but looking at my wheels and how the spokes stick out I should be able to fit these bad boys on there.
    Calipers - $250
    Pads - $70
    Rotors - $140
    SS Lines - $80


    $540 roughly

    Cry havoc and let slip the dogs of war.
    2004 Saab 9-5 Aero - WAHSAABI - Way too much power/Koni FSD & Hirsch Springs/Big Sways - DD/AutoX'r
    2007 Ford F-150 Lariat - 5.4L V8 - Bill secretly likes it
    2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SE - Wifey Mobile
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  19. #19 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
    top 5 dead or alive OmegaRed's Avatar
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    i think im gonna have to be a guinea pig again and just get the calipers and bolt them up to see if gxp's clear
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  20. #20 Re: The Official what you need and how-to for CTS-V brakes 
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrunkieTheBear View Post
    The whole CTS-V idea was spawned because you F-body guys were doing it, except you guys run the same bolt pattern as a vette or CTS-V, so you can just run Z06 Rotors. Our hardest part was finding a Rotor that fit these brakes and our cars.
    I'm behind in the times, I tend to figure stuff out on myself to avoid the general douchebaggery that pervades most of the LS1 boards.
    Mine: 1998 Trans Am - 6.0L and T56 swap, C6 brakes, nitrous, not slow
    Brother 1: 1998 Grand Prix GT 2-door - 3.8L SC and 5-spd manual swap coming soon
    Brother 2: 2000 Grand Prix GTP 4-door - stock until he learns to stop breaking his junk.
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