Built motor is blown (video) and buying a L26 for now and moving all my things to it

**acidcrashdburnd** · 05-11-2013

coasting in my neighborhood the cam was about to make the car stall with its lumpiness I gave it a 20-25% throttle jump to keep it going I notice 10 seconds later the DIC says low oil PSI and the light is on in the cluster FU.CK mode active. turn car off. waited 5 minutes tried to start it and no lights for oil. drive it the 100 feet to my drive way and let it idle and gave it a quick rev and thats when i got to hear my heart and head explode. It sounds nice and fine before 2.2k. I changed the oil, more metal in it third change in 300 miles. start car again now its a bit more quiet and sounds like its coming from the top end.

RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG GGGGGGGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE QUIT

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 05-11-2013

So its the machine shops fault then.

**Toms04compg** · 05-11-2013

Sounds like you didn't change your oil pump.

**Toms04compg** · 05-11-2013

With all the metal shavings still around that long.

**buck531** · 05-11-2013

And this is why a stock bottom end is better than building a motor...

That sucks.

**acidcrashdburnd** · 05-11-2013

Originally Posted by Toms04compg

Sounds like you didn't change your oil pump.

Originally Posted by Toms04compg

With all the metal shavings still around that long.

Just curious why would I need to change an oil pump with only 69k on it?? I changed the oil the first time with 60 miles on it then again tonight with 240 on that.

**Toms04compg** · 05-11-2013

Metal shavings in your oil for 60 miles bro nuff said.

**Toms04compg** · 05-11-2013

Sounds like there could have been some of those shavings in your pick up tube... pump ect. How doesn't that make sense?

**acidcrashdburnd** · 05-11-2013

Originally Posted by Toms04compg

Metal shavings in your oil for 60 miles bro buff said.

I am a bit tired atm

are you trying to say that I should have changed it when I did the rebuild or I will need to change it now?

**L36 Killer** · 05-11-2013

Sorry to hear man. Sub'd for future success!

**Toms04compg** · 05-11-2013

Should have on the rebuild bro... especially since you sound like you spun an rb to start with. Good luck bro

**Toms04compg** · 05-11-2013

Did you crank it a bit just to get oil flowing before initial start up? If you didn't I suggest you try it this time. Pull your fuel pump fuse and do like 10 sets of 15 second cranks. Use 10w30 non syn on your break in oil.

**acidcrashdburnd** · 05-11-2013

Originally Posted by Toms04compg

Did you crank it a bit just to get oil flowing before initial start up? If you didn't I suggest you try it this time. Pull your fuel pump fuse and do like 10 sets of 15 second cranks. Use 10w30 non syn on your break in oil.

We cranked it for about 5 minutes 30 seconds at a time with 20 second breaks in between. with 10w30 no syn with GM E O S mixed in with the oil

**Grimsin** · 05-12-2013

all these horror stories with top/swaps/ builds are starting to scare me.

**Sudden** · 05-12-2013

Wow, sorry to hear that. Good luck.

**acidcrashdburnd** · 05-12-2013

I'm shopping for a l36 26 to throw in. I'm doing a V8 car mod. ****ing having any extra money.

**acidcrashdburnd** · 05-12-2013

Originally Posted by Grimsin

all these horror stories with top/swaps/ builds are starting to scare me.

Just make sure you use headers and a tune. You will be ok

**JerzNick** · 05-12-2013

Sorry to hear man. I feel your pain, I'm on engine #3 myself. I have an L36 with tranny sitting on my garage floor, approx 72k on it when pulled. Selling for cheap if your interested.

**darkhorizon** · 05-13-2013

The metal shavings in the oil were from the first second you built the motor... Something was grinding and its not going to stop.. usually a grinding bearing will last about 300-500 miles before it falls apart enough to knock.