Thread: Spun rod bearing in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I?

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  1. #1 Spun rod bearing in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Just like the title says, my car just spun a bearing and I'm looking around for a JY replacement. I found a few Series II's, 120K for $750, and 154k for $700. The kicker is I found a 155k Series III for $650. I haven't had the car long (3 weeks), so I haven't had much time to look into upgrades and whatnot, but I have seen the Series III a better setup. Should I buy the Series III and swap it in? What all is involved with the swap?
    Last edited by Booba5185; 03-23-2013 at 02:17 PM.
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  2. #2 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    youtu.be/xhrBDcQq2DM FoSHO99's Avatar
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    There's a difference between series 2/3 supercharged and series 2/3 non supercharged motors. Which are you looking at?
    2001 GTP PT61 Turbo, E85, Stock Motor
    2011 Chevy Cruze MT6 1.4L Turbo
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  3. #3 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    You would need a throttle body adapter ($100) and that's all, as long as the new motor has the SC on it. And if it does..you are ahead of the game from the SC side.

    Then swap your alt, ac bracket, map sensors and TB etc on .. you are good to go. Oh..and use the S3 evap. piece of cake.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  4. #4 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Where do you suggest getting the plate from? Will I need any tune or anything? I know the M90 is a more efficient setup, but will I gain any horsepower\torque or just reliability? It sounds like this is definitely the route I should go.
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  5. #5 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Actually both motors are M90's, the S3 has the Gen V or newer version. There is some gain, but it's really just a slight cooler charge.

    One thing I forgot. Hope that the black bracket is on the oil pan for the motor mount. If it is.. you'll need to remove the edge of the lip on the subframe bucket that holds that mount. This is the better aluminum oil pan and mount IMO. Or you can use the big horseshoe bracket with the mount and grind the bracket a little.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  6. #6 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    I would think that it is there, since it is from a junkyard, but if it is not....will I be able to use the bracket\mount off of my current engine?

    Also, will I need to do anything to the fuel rail or the PCV system?
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  7. #7 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    ZZP on the plate
    Use your injectors and rail and map sensor and TB.

    Yeah..you could use your bracket, with a touch of grinding to clear the aluminum pan. I'd prefer to buy the $12 bracket from the dealership. Search on aluminum pan and you'll likely find the bracket part number. Some yards don't leave them..I dunno.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #8 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Awesome, thanks for the info. Looks like I'll be doing this swap then. Should I start another thread when the swap takes place or just post pics in this one? If I have any other questions on the swap I'll be posting them in here.
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  9. #9 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Is the super charger gasket the same? I have a spare for my Gen III so I was wondering if I could use that on the Gen V?
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  10. #10 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    They are similar but not the same. Ports are in different places and I don't think you can interchange them.

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  11. #11 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
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    Thanks, So I've been adding everything up, minus the oil\coolant\cleaning materials to see the price difference. If I order everything from Rockauto (except the TB adapter of course), the price difference from Series II to Series III is a whooping $40.98. I do have a few questions though, are the exhaust manifold gaskets different? What about the rear main seal\block gasket? Does this look like everything I'd need for the most part?


    Series II Series III
    Oreilly Rock Auto Oreilly Rock Auto
    Water Pump $42.99 $24.89 $42.99 $24.89
    Timing Chain $47.99 $40.79 $47.99 $40.79
    Oil Pan Gasket $51.99 $27.99 $51.99 $27.99
    Rear Main Seal $15.99 $9.18 $24.99 $15.31
    Timing Cover Gasket $14.99 $11.98 $14.99 $11.98
    Valve Cover Gasket $61.99 $36.79 $61.99 $36.79
    Exhaust Manifold Gasket $7.99 $4.80 $18.99 $10.41
    Timing Dampener $19.99 $14.71 $19.99 $14.71
    Super Charger Gasket $0.00 $0.00 $61.99 $8.75
    Throttle Body Adapter $0.00 $0.00 $99.99 $99.99
    Shipping $0.00 $13.31 $0.00 $41.11
    Tax $24.41 $0.00 $27.00 $0.00
    Parts Total $288.33 $184.44 $472.90 $332.72
    Engine Price $750 $750 $650 $650
    Engine Tax $54.8 $54.8 $47.5 $47.5
    Grand total $1,093.08 $989.19 $1,170.35 $1,030.17
    Rock Auto Series 2 vs. Series 3 price
    $40.98
    Last edited by Booba5185; 03-22-2013 at 01:01 PM.
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  12. #12 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    I know the exhaust gasket is the same between all S2 & S3 3800s. GM# 24506057

    The rear Crank Seals are the same as well. To my knowledge the block & gaskets are all the same between S2 & S3, its working parts that make the difference, crank/rods/pistons, sensors, heads, supercharger/intake manifold, etc... Core block is basically the same I think.
    Rear crank oil seal - GM# 12582320
    Rear crank cover gasket - GM# 24507388

    ^ same between 97-08 3800s, I checked.

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  13. #13 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Awesome, I'll just get the ones for the S2 wince they are a tad bit cheaper. Thanks yet again.
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  14. #14 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
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    Oh I forgot to add, I already have the metal LIM gaskets on my old engine, I'll be reusing them.
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  15. #15 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    I wouldnt reuse used gaskets I dont trust them.
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
    Superchargers take away horsepower
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  16. #16 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    I've been told by quite a few people that I can reuse the metal ones. They've been on the car for all of a week, so they are still under warranty. If they leak then I'll replace then under that warranty. If I can make it look like they leaked, then I'll replace them before the engine goes in I guess.
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  17. #17 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    Yea, as funny as it sounds, they are NOT re-useable. Maybe if you just put the motor together and only went 1,000 miles or so... but I would just buy new. GM changed to the metal gaskets because the Dexcool was breaking down the plastic compound the original gaskets were made of, causing leaks.

    Unless you ok with risking a leak inside the motor... just get new ones.

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  18. #18 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    You dont need a throttle body adapter if you rock the old blower/intake. You will also need a SC gasket either way you go about it. exhaust gaskets NEVER fail, they are MLS, and can be reused forever. Rear main seals are the same between s2 and s3, but I typically get S3 gaskets as they are typically an updated design. S3's dont use oilpan gaskets if they are aluminium, either way new oil pan gaskets are usually never needed as they will still leak... rebuilding a stock gasket with RTV is usually the best choice.

    For the record, i have taken my LIM off my turbo car more than a few times and reused the alum LIM gasket.
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  19. #19 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    I was always told not to reuse them.
    You say you have used them without any problems?
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
    Superchargers take away horsepower
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  20. #20 Re: Spun rod in my engine, Series III is cheaper than Series II, should I? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Booba5185's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLSheff View Post
    Yea, as funny as it sounds, they are NOT re-useable. Maybe if you just put the motor together and only went 1,000 miles or so... but I would just buy new. GM changed to the metal gaskets because the Dexcool was breaking down the plastic compound the original gaskets were made of, causing leaks.

    Unless you ok with risking a leak inside the motor... just get new ones.
    There's maybe 8 miles on the new gaskets in the old motor.

    it's out of a 2004 so it should have a aluminum oil pan correct? So no oil pan gasket? My current M90 has 230k on it, so I'll use the Gen V m90 (150k). I'll hold off on the exhaust gaskets then, thanks for that advice.
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