Thread: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty

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  1. #1 engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
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    How hard is it to replace the lower engine and transmission mounts. It looks like there are only two, not counting the dog bones from the top of the engine to the radiator support. The dogbones have already been replaced, and they did help. The car buzzes at an idle, and it feels like the motor still moves a fair amount when you put it in park and it rolls back. Is this a repair that a competent DIY mechanic can do in the garage with a floor jack and stands?

    Motor Mount - GM (10448575) | GMPartsDirect.com

    https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-trans-mount-22146834
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  2. #2 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    Yep, can be done in the garage. Done at least 4 cars so far. Mine twice, lol. All I did was set it up on stands and once you get the trans mount bolts loose throw a jack and a wood board that will span the trans and jack it up with the board inbetween. It will lift up enough to squeak the mount out. Then just slowly lower the jack and make sure the bolts line up as you go. Then same for the motor mount. You'll probably have to remove the splash sheild to get to it. Just a few pins and it'll come out. Obviously pulling the pass. tire off will open it up. You may have to remove the pass. side dogbone up top to get it to jack up enough to clear the new mount.
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  3. #3 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
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    its pretty simple. took me about 2 slow hours doin what fordman said. think i took the tires off on both sides. cant remember but do remember it was pretty easy
    08 grand prix NA3800
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  4. #4 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ive done it too, jack stands and a 2x8 and jack to span the two pans do one side at a time. so move the jacks location for each side. pretty easy.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
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    Yea, I did remove both front tires for easier access now that I think about it.
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  6. #6 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    Yea, I did remove both front tires for easier access now that I think about it.

    both wheels off for the win!!!! tranny mount is cake. the motor mount side you can just lift the shield, easier to see whats going on removed tho. i drop the socket on the top nuts, then put the tip of my 3/8 ratchet in the socket, cause the stud is to long and cant fit a deep socket. break it free and work it out. do the same to make the nuts tight again.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    Donating Users bandook's Avatar
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    Just the tip, and only for a minute.
    Top Swapped 01 Imp
    VS (very small?) cam, SD Headers, 2.8" pulley, 29°, ported everything, E85, AEM water/meth, Deka 60's, HPT tuned
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  8. #8 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bandook View Post
    Just the tip, and only for a minute.
    i promise, and the checks in the mail lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
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    Just a quick check before ordering the lower mounts. These things are always failed at 180K miles, correct? The engine does rock back and forth a bit, although the new dogbones at the top have limited movement somewhat. I was under there last night trying to find the exhaust leak, and couldn't see anything immediately obvious at the motor mounts, but wasn't looking that closely as I was trying to chase down the exhaust leak.
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  10. #10 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    most of these cars leak oil on the motor mount. oil breaks down the rubber and the mount falls apart. mine was so gone the engine and tranny would twist in the bay when shifted from p to D or d to r.

    the trans mount you can look at it, at the top part will be a round button sticking up through the metal top part of the new mount. on the new one its flush with the metal. raised button shows how much its compressed over time.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    most of these cars leak oil on the motor mount. oil breaks down the rubber and the mount falls apart.
    Indeed they do, the less-leaky engine wasn't designed until after the 3.8L V6. Thanks.
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  12. #12 Re: engine and trans mount replacement difficulty 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    C'mon guys.. my cars didn't leak after I did a few gaskets. And honestly, what's a gasket or two every 150k miles?
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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