Thread: Seeking advice in the midst of an M90 coupler replacement.

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  1. #1 Seeking advice in the midst of an M90 coupler replacement. 
    SE Level Member younger5th's Avatar
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    I bought a coupler from ZZP. Everything is apart and on. Before I put everything back together, I have a few questions...

    1) Does it matter which set of three holes line up with the pegs on the main body? Should the holes on the pegs be the set with the thicker rim, or rotated so the thicker rim is on the opposite side?
    2) When I was trying to take the nose off, the rotor assembly wanted to come out with it. There doesn't appear to have been a seal. Is this correct, or should I apply one just like I would with the nose?
    3) Is there any problem that could arise by removing the rotor assembly completely from the housing? Any special tricks to putting it back in I'd need to know beforehand?
    4) I've read and gotten the general opinion that cleaning the rotors isn't recommended. Any issues with cleaning off the nose and gears though? And what would be best to do that? Brake cleaner, etc?

    Thanks in advance.
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  2. #2 Re: Seeking advice in the midst of an M90 coupler replacement. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    pegs dont matter where they go back in the coupler, brake cleaner works fine to wash the snout and gears down. dont think the rotor side gets sealant. dont touch the rotors. leave them alone.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Seeking advice in the midst of an M90 coupler replacement. 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    1. Nope. I just slap it on there and line up the other 3 holes on the snout.

    2. Normal. There is no seal. The mating surfaces are what I call matched to each other, they seal pretty much perfect to each other.

    3. Just leave the rotor pack in there, no reason to remove it really. Very very small chance you could screw up the needle bearings on the other side when you remove it and install it again.

    4. Right, do not touch the rotors with any cleaner. You can clean the gears and the snout with brake cleaner or whatever to get all the old oil off.

    You will need anaerobic sealer for the snout, not sure you bought a tube yet. The sealer is designed to seal without air, do not use RTV.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  4. #4 Re: Seeking advice in the midst of an M90 coupler replacement. 
    SE Level Member younger5th's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips.
    I went ahead and got everything back together. I got the anaerobic sealer and hopefully applied it well enough. Even if a tiny bit got squeezed inside from torquing it down, I assume it won't make much difference.
    After application, I pushed it in tight. Gave it 10 minutes or so before I torqued it down. Let it sit for over an hour, and then started it for a few minutes. The rock rattle noise is gone and I don't see any leaks so I think I'm in good shape.
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  5. #5 Re: Seeking advice in the midst of an M90 coupler replacement. 
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    While this is being discussed I also have recently replaced my coupler. Here’s the tale...
    Marble rattle started after I replaced water pump and I have no reason to believe they were related.
    1. Replaced forward most pulley on supercharger belt drive. No change.
    2. Replaced coupler with Amazon generic part. No change
    3. Replaced Belt. Sound went away for a few miles and came back fully.
    4. Replaced tensioner pulley. No change.

    If I release a bit of tension on the tensioner while running the car the sound goes away. Not enough for the snout to quit spinning by any means. I’m losing my mind over this noise and am concerned it’s the rotors or something. Also the removal of supercharger belt stops the noise obviously.
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