Thread: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info

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  1. #1 Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    This thread is to answer all the recent questions about Top Swaps.

    But First Some General Engine Information about Our 3800's, the Engine Years are GP specific, cause I don't know which was in which of the other W-bodys

    The Grand Prix has come with 4 different engines since 97:

    Engine Basics/ Availability

    There are two NA(naturally aspirated engines):
    The Series II motor is the L36 97 - 03
    The Series III motor is the L26 and went 04*ish to 08
    The ishs are because some of the motors in 04 are series III with Series II conecting rods(
    *There is an aluminum oil pan in some series III engines 05+ and all Series III engines 06+

    There are two Supercharged motors
    The Series II motor is the L67 and uses the Gen III M90(supercharger) 97-03ish
    The Series III motor is the L32 and uses the Gen V M90(supercharger) 04*ish-07
    The ishs are the same as above, except all 04 and up have the Gen V M90, just the rest of the engine may be a Series II/III Hybrid
    *There is an aluminum oil pan in some series III engines 05+ and all Series III engines 06+

    While the motors are very similar, there are several differences:

    Engine Info/Differences

    The L67 and L32 have a 8.5 to 1 compression ratio
    The L36 and L26 have a 9.4 to 1 compression ratio

    The L67 and L32 have the fuel injector bosses in the heads
    The L36 and L26 have the fuel injector bosses in the LIM(lower intake manifold)

    The L32 and L26 have an Electronically Controlled Throttle
    The L67 and L36 have a Cable Controlled Throttle

    The L26 and L36 have one Belt
    The L67 and L32 have two Belts

    The L32 and L26 have a 4 bolt square throttle body bolt pattern
    The L67 and L36 have a 3 bolt triangle throttle body bolt pattern

    The L32 and L67 cars have a 3/4" Radiator
    The L36 and L26(Maybe) have a 5/8" radiator

    The L67 has a Gen III M90
    The L32 has a Gen V M90(the gen V is considered much more efficient)
    ****The Stock Pulley for both Gen III and Gen V is 3.8 inches in Diameter

    The L36 has a Plastic Upper intake
    The L26 has an Aluminum Upper intake

    The NA motors have the cam timing off one degree from the factory

    The SC pistons have more space between the piston top and top compression ring than the NA pistons

    The L32 and L26 engines have Powder Forged connecting rods and Moly Coated Piston skirts

    The L32 and L26 engines' heads flow slightly better than the Series II heads
    (thanks to slightly bigger valves and slightly better port design)

    Fuel System:

    The L36 and L26 have 26 LB an Hour injectors
    The L32 and L67 have 36 Lb an Hour injectors
    **** the GTP's 97-03 have a two speed fuel pump system as well

    The L32 and L26 engines have a Return-Less fuel system while the L67 and L36 have a continuous flow system(not sure of the correct name)

    Transmission Info:

    The L32* and L67 cars have a 4T65E-Hd transmission
    The L36 and L26 cars have a 4T65E transmission
    * The Comp G has a specific trans that has 3.29 Final drive, and other enhancements

    The L32* and L67 Cars have a Final drive of 2.93 to 1
    The L36 and L26 Cars have a Final drive of 3.29 to 1
    * The Comp G has a specific trans that has 3.29 Final drive, and other enhancements

    Other Info:

    The crank, Block, and Cam are the same between the NA and SC motors of the same year range (L67 and L36 share their parts, and the L32 and L26 share their parts)

    The connecting rods should be the same length, but the wrist pin ends are different, so it may measure different since they measure connecting rods center to center

    Now on to the Top Swap Stuff:

    Many Ask what is the Reason to top swap, Well there are a few:

    A top swap motor has higher compresion giving it about 5% more power at the same mod level as its originaly SC cousin

    The SC cannot be bolted on to the L36/L26 heads because of the engine differences stated above.

    It can be less costly than a motor swap, and you get to change many engine gaskets, possibly ones that need to be replaced


    What is required for a Top Swap?

    I will have a parts list later on, but pretty much everything block up other than the main belt tensioner and alternator need to be swapped

    Lots of Patience

    Lots of searching, There is tons more info on this forum that you can find in any one post of thread, read all that you can before attempting a topswap

    Some time, it can take from 6hours and up to complete the Swap

    PARTS LIST

    HIGHLY RECOMMEND BUYING A SCANGAUGE AND WIDEBAND o2 SENSOR IF YOU WISH TO DO THESE MODS TO YOUR VEHICLE. THE LAST THING YOU WANT IS FOR YOU TO NOT KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON WITH THE ENGINE AND HAVING IT BLOW UP IN YOUR FACE.


    Heads from SC motor (Either Series will do, all the blocks are the came so all the heads can be interchanged)
    Head Bolts, can be OEM replacements or Studs, up to you(Stock are Torque to Yield(one time use)
    Thread Sealer (the head bolts go into the coolant jacket, and if they aren't sealed, they will weap coolant out)
    Head Gaskets
    Rocker boltsSame reason as the head bolts
    Valve Cover Gaskets
    Harmonic Balancer From the SC motor
    Tensioner for SC belt
    Idlers for Sc beltThese require bolts that aren't on the L26/L36
    Coil Pack BracketThe tensioner and one of the idlers bolt to the SC Coil bracket (some 97 and 98 cars may not need a different bracket)
    Lower Intake Manifold from the SC motor(The bolts are the same, so you can use your old LIM bolts if needed)
    Lower intake Manifold Gaskets(the Aluminum ones are the Best)
    Fuel Rail(you need the one that matches your fuel system, 97-03 gets the standard rail, while 04+ needs the return-less)
    Fuel InjectorsAre not a requirement, but you should run the SC injectors or better flowing units
    **Injector connectors may be required on some years
    Supercharger
    Supercharger Gasket(If you use a Gen III M90 you need O-rings as well)
    Supercharger Belt
    Throttle Body from SC motor(This isn't required but recommended)
    Throttle Body Gasket
    Colder Thermostat I Recommend 180*, but that is all personal preference
    1 Step Cooler Spark PlugsUsually recommended for the Top Swap
    Fluids Oil(a change needs to be done after Swap and before engine is started) Coolant(you will loose a good amount doing the Swap
    Oil FilterFor above change
    Tunned PCM Stock Gt settings are way too aggressive for a SC application, I suggest a tuner, but if you don't have time, a Canned tune can work
    Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (optional)
    Headers - Should highly be considered because you are trying to flow more air and to do it safely headers are your best bet. A plog/downpipe setup might suffice aswell but you'll figure that out if you see lots of engine knock being reported on a tuner/scanner.


    Some Common Questions(FAQ)

    Which blower should I Use:
    Well that depends, the Gen V is more efficient, but also more expensive, if you run a Gen V you need a Gen V LIM as well (you can modify the older LIM, but that is up to you) A Gen V will also require custom Vacuum and EVAP routing( if you have a L36, the L26 has similar vacuum routing to the L32)

    Will this Series II part bolt to this Series III part?
    99% the parts will bolt together, the Alternators were different for different years, so those may need to be swapped, the only parts that don't have the same bolt pattern Series II to Series III are the Throttle Bodys

    How much Boost Does it get?
    I get 5 - 7lbs depending on temp( with a stock Pulley), but boost numbers are very mod specific and will vary from person to person

    How much Power do I gain?
    General Consencus is that you will have 5% more power than a L67 with identical mods, so stock vs stock, you should have about 252HP at the crank (Stock 240hp * 1.05(5%)).... A stock GTP is somewhere between 185 - 195WHP, so expect similar like 185-200whp if you Dyno your car.....

    How Much Faster Does the Car Get?
    The usual Gain is 1 full second from where you are now, I gained .89 seconds on my custom tune(which isn't very good) So a full second to 1.2 seconds seems right (this Depends on mods though)

    Does It Affect Fuel Mileage?
    That Depends if you can stay out of boost, If your going WOT every time your car moves, then of course you fuel mileage is gonna drop, I noticed a gain in Gas Mileage in my car, driving the same as I did before the Swap.

    How Long Does The Swap Take To do?

    It took me about 11 hours of work from start to finish, but this all depends on how good you are with a wrench and how much patience you have

    Will it Kill my Trans
    If your trans is already weak/abused then this may very well kill it, anytime you up engine power you increase the stress on the trans. Now, a well maintained trans will last well(If you don't beat on it and drive like a madman) with a Swap, but in our cars the Trans is the weak link, so sadly there is no guarantee( many Na motors have destroyed their Transmisions) that the added 40 - 60 Hp won't kill the Trans

    Basic Install Instructions Curtesy of Beastin1 and Mr. Mark Chandler

    Quote Originally Posted by beastin1 View Post
    THIS WAS WRITTEN AND POSTED BY A BUDDY OF MINE ON MY OTHER SITE, FIGURED IT FIT IN WELL SO I'M POSTING IT HERE...HOPE IT HELPS...
    ************************************************** ********
    This manual should give someone a good idea on how to successfully do a top end swap on any 3800 Series II powered vehicle! (Buick/Chevy/Pontiac/etc)

    ***This swap intended for a swap retaining the L36 Harmonic Balancer. Although you can change it out, I did not. You cannot run anything smaller than a 3.25 SS pulley with the stock GT balancer***

    **Basic hand tools and a torque wrench will be required for this swap. Alot of mechanical knowledge is not needed, but it sure does help. If yuo need any torque specs, let me know in this thread.**

    1 - You will want to plan at least a 3 day weekend to do the swap. So make space in your garage/cover/etc. DO NOT CHANGE OIL BEFORE SWAP! You will be out the cost of a new oil change in the end if you do.

    2 - Pull the fuel pump relay fuse, and start the car. It will die, releasing all fuel in the system for fuel rail removal. Start the car again to remove any more fuel. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and position it so it doesn't come in contact with the battery. Reinstall the fuel pump relay fuse.

    3 - Using a 15 MM socket on the idler pulley, remove the accessory belt. Place aside.

    4 - Jack up the car and place jack stands underneath the car then remove your downpipe, there are two bolts that are corroded and need to be broken loose. WD40 or a torch will break the bolts loose. They will probably break, but its okay, old rocker arm bolts can be used here. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor harness.

    5 - Go ahead and drain all of your coolant, I found that pulling off the lower radiator hose is easiest. Then lower the car and remove the jackstands. More coolant will pour out, so do not remove whatever you are using to catch the coolant.

    6 - Fuel removal is the next step. Disconnect the fuel line and fuel return. Gas will come out of these, so have a catch can or rag ready. Disconnect each fuel injector harness, and label them if you would like. Remove the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. The rail is held down to the LIM on 4 studs. Remove these nuts. The fuel rail should now lift out of the engine. Be careful, gasoline will still come out of the rail. Handle with extreme care.

    7 - Remove your existing air intake system, and the IAT sensor. Then, remove the brake booster hose that goes to the master cylinder. Disconnect the throttle cables and cruise cables, then disconnect the MAP, MAF, IAC, and TPS sensors and label them if you would like. Remove the support bracket on the throttle body and bend it out (not going to be used again.) Remove the throttle cable bracket and save it. We need to now remove the Upper intake manifold.

    8 - There are many bolts holding the UIM do the LIM. Be careful when removing, and use a cross pattern for removal to reduce stress on both the UI and LI manifolds. The intake manifold can now be removed. Expect coolant to flow out of the throttle body. Set aside.

    9 - Remove the alternator. Pull the positive supply and sensor plug from the alternator. Set aside. We can now access the heater core lines. Remove the core lines. Coolant will spill. Then remove the bracket, the core will hang from the plastic coolant elbows and will probably break, but if your careful, you can salvage it and save you a trip to the store for a new one. If it does break, try your closest GM dealership or a new one. Coolant will flow from the lower intake manifold. Place the bracket aside for now.

    10 - We can now continue on to the removal of the LIM. Remove the EGR flex tube from the LIM. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, catching any coolant that flows. Now carefully, remove all the studs holding the LIM to the block, and once again, remove in a cross pattern to reduce stress on the block. Some of the bolts will be covered in sludge and hard to see, but they are there, hidden. Grab the thermostat housing and lift up, this may take some force to break the LIM free from the block. Hold the LIM level to avoid spilling coolant down inside the engine. Place aside.

    11 - Removal of the exhaust manifolds is next. Remove all plug wires and set aside, label them if they are not already. Remove the left dogbone motor mount and ignition coil bracket and coil control module. We need to remove the rear manifold first, so that we can keep the front right dogbone motor mount in place for maximum clearance. Remove the rear valve cover and set aside. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor plug from the rear manifold and remove the EGR tube from the manifold as well. Remove the crossover pipe from the rear manifold as well. These bolts will require heat/oil to get loose, but will probably break in the long run. Old rocker arm bolts work well here. Remove all manifold studs at this time. Lifting the rear manifold out is a pain, so take your time and think it out. I found it best to bend the transmission dipstick tube out of the way a bit. Now, remove the upper right dogbone motor mount to remove the front manifold. Remove all studs and disconnect the front manifold from the crossover pipe. These bolts will more than likely break, but that's okay, old rocker arms bolts can be used here as well. Remove both the front exhaust manifold and the crossover pipe. You can either choose to keep the old metal gaskets or use new ones. Either way, both can be used or reused.

    12 - We need to remove the rocker arm's from the head assemblies. They are held down via rocker arm bolts. Remove these bolts and each rocker arm should lift out with ease. Remove the corresponding pushrod to each rocker arm and make sure to label them. Check the picture below for an idea on organizing the assemblies. Once all rocker arms are removed and labeled, the rocker arm pedestal can now be removed as well. Place aside. We now have access to all the head bolts on both heads.



    13 - Now for the removal of the heads! There is one stud on each head blocking one head bolt. Remove this stud. We can now access all head bolts. Each head has 8 bolts, remove them in the same order as the tightening sequence. These heads are VERY heavy and filled with coolant, so handle with extreme care. If you are unable to lift the head out and have access to an engine hoist, don't be afraid to use it. The rear head is a real pain! Place these heads aside and discard the old gaskets as they will never be used again. Soak up any coolant that entered the combustion chamber of the engine.

    14 - The swap is basically half way done, now a lot of prep work is necessary. Clean the heads however you would like, but the heads have to be in near perfect condition before reinstalling them. The heads should almost have a mirror like image to them. I found that using brake cleaner and a free hand razor blade is perfect for this. Just be EXTRA CAREFUL if you decide to use a razor on the heads, as one small scratch in the heads can and most likely will cause a head gasket leak. If you have another cleaning method, use it. Heads must be oil free before re installation. Use soap and water after the initial cleaning and dry with compressed air or a lint free cloth. I assure you, the more time you spend cleaning the heads, the better chance you have of not having a head gasket leak, which would be a very bad deal.

    15 - Just like previously, we need to clean and prep the block as best as possible. Once again, near perfection. I cannot stress enough the importance of clean mating surfaces!

    16 - *Prior to the rear head installation, you might want to position your rear manifold/header in place so it is alot easier to install. Just place it in the rear of the engine bay, I found this easy.*

    Go ahead and place your head gaskets on the block to ensure the right gasket, and a good fit. The arrow on the gasket should face the front of the motor, or towards, lets say, the alternator. Remove the gaskets and spray them both, on both sides of the gasket with copper spray, but do not spray too much or the spray will run and drip. We cannot install head gaskets that have sealant dripping on them. CAREFULLY, place the gaskets on the engine block, with the arrow facing the correct way. Now, go ahead and place one L67 head at a time on the block. If you place the head on the gasket and remove any spray, you MUST remove the gasket and respray it. This is very important, we do not want any head gasket leaks on first startup! Once you have both heads in place, go ahead and place in your new head bolts. You should coat all bolts with a decent amount of APR bolt lube from hear on out. The 4 short bolts go into the intake side (top) of the head and the 4 longer bolts go into the exhaust side (bottom) on the head. Tighten down to these specs and in this sequence.

    Cylinder Head Bolts - 50 N-m + 120° | or | 37 lb ft + 120°

    ===Intake===
    5 1 3 6 <---Shorter Bolts
    7 4 2 8 <---Longer Bolts
    ===Exhaust===



    17 - Double check everything once that is done. This step is one of the most vital of the entire swap. Once you are confident you did everything correctly, go ahead and position your old/new rocker arm pedestals onto the heads, your old/new pushrods into the motor and your old/new rocker arms onto the heads. You should be using new rocker arm bolts, as the old ones cannot be used.

    Torque to: 11 lb ft + 90° going from the inside towards the outside, every other bolt. In other words, just don't torque two bolts that are next to each other one after another.



    18 - Put some new spark plugs into the new heads. I recommend AL103's or AL104's, as they are cheap and help prevent knock. Gap around .052-.055'. Reinstall the EGR bracket and valve onto the rear head at this time.

    19 - Reinstall both exhaust manifolds/headers at this time now. Do the rear manifold first. Torque down to specs and make sure to reinstall the studs you had to take out to access the head bolts. Re-attatch the Oxygen sensor to the rear manifold, and connect the crossover pipe to the rear manifold at this time. Position and tighten down the front manifold to the head and the crossover pipe. Torque everything down to specs at this time. Old rocker arm bolts can now be used for the crossover pipe.

    20 - Install your new coil bracket to the front head using the old studs. Go ahead and put on the Ignition module, the extra idler and S/C belt tensioner. Install the ICM ground as well. Tighten everything down. Now, we can move on to installing the new LIM.

    21 - Prep the surface of the new LIM just as you would with the heads. Remove any build up on the surface, as well as the intake side. DO NOT forget to clean the intake side, it is easy to skip! Place your new LIM gasket onto the engine, use RTV anywhere you'd like to seal good. I found that placing a bit in each corner where the LIM gasket meets the lower block gaskets is useful and will help prevent boost/vacuum leaks. Now put your new LIM into place and torque to specs and using the proper sequence.



    22 - Go ahead and position your valve covers on at this time.

    Torque to: 89 in lbs.



    23 - Attach the EGR flex tube to the LIM. Now is the time to put in a thermostat. A 160* or a 180* is great here, up to you though. Knock will be against you after this swap, so choose carefully. Install the thermostat, gaskets and re-attach the upper radiator hose.

    23 - We can now start to put together the "boost half" of the engine. Go ahead and attach your old/new L67 or aftermarket (with adapters) throttle body to the supercharger. A new gasket should be used here, rubber preferably.

    *If you are doing an intercooled top swap, now would be the time to install the core*

    24 - Prep the bottom of the supercharger like you did the heads, and the LIM, near perfection. Clean up the LIM one last time before laying down new gaskets. Now, put new coolant O-Rings and the new S/C gasket onto the LIM. Place carefully. Use copper spray if you would like. Place the supercharger down carefully onto the new S/C gasket. You should use new supercharger bolts at this point. Torque to specs and sequence. Be very cautious here, I could not get my blower to torque properly without the blower binding for a while. After you torque each bolt, spin the blower to ensure a free spin, and no binding. After all the bolts are torqued and the blower is bind-free, you have torqued it properly and can move on.



    25 - Put new coolant elbows back on the water pump and the LIM without breaking them, it is a bit tricky. Slide the heater core elbow back into the plastic coolant elbows.

    26 - Reinstall your alternator. Connect the sensor plug and the power source wire.

    27 -Put on the extra idler pulley and mount.

    28 -Place your new L67/new aftermarket injectors into the heads with new o-rings. Gas leaks can occur due to a cracked o-ring. Place your new L67/new aftermarket fuel rail onto the injectors. Transfer the injector clips from the old rail onto the new one. Tighten down the rail to the 4 studs coming out of the LIM. Attach the fuel line and fuel return to the new rail. Re-attach all the injector harness plugs onto the marked injector.

    29 - Install the throttle cable bracket and throttle body and cruise lines onto the throttle body. We can now install the air intake system. This should be a cold air intake system, to help reduce knock. You can reinstall the factory system, but a CAI setup is ideal. At this time, attach the MAF, IAT, IAC and TPS sensors.

    30 - Run a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP. The fuel pressure regulator needs to see boost in order to operate correctly. Go ahead and attach the Boost Bypass Valve to the supercharger. It's held on with a bracket and two bolts. Run a vac line from the tree on the supercharger to the top nipple on the BBV. The bottom one needs to see ATMOSPHERE, because our L36 PCM's cannot control the BBV.

    31 - We can now put the exhaust back on. First, connect the HVAC, EVAP and Brake booster vacuum lines. For the exhaust, a 3 inch downpipe should be used to get the most out of your swap. You will need a new gasket for the manifold-downpipe and then downpipe - resonator. Transfer your oxygen sensor and hook it up to the harness.

    32 - Go ahead and fill up the car with coolant. Reconnect the lower radiator hose. 50/50 coolant/water mix is fine. Once all the coolant is bled, put coolant in the overflow tank.

    33 - Now is the post swap oil change to get rid of any coolant that may have spilled into the motor. Pretty straight forward.

    34 - Go ahead and put on an SS pulley from ZZP of your choice, according to mods you have now. I would start off with a large pulley so the motor can get used to boost. Then put on the accessory belt.

    35 - Fill the supercharger snout with specific GM supercharger, ZZP (etc.) oil.

    36 - Reconnect the negative cable back onto the battery and double check you put in the fuel pump relay fuse into the fusebox panel.

    Look over everything once again, making sure everything is connected properly. Now, start the car. It should run rough while the PCM is learning the new swap. Add coolant as needed and bleed the system. Drive the car carefully for the first 300-400 miles.

    Enjoy your new swap and feel free to show it off!




    Author - Marc M. Chandler
    Published - Marc M. Chandler (Sept. 11th, 2008)
    Copyright - All Rights Reserved



    I know there is much more, feel free to post any questions or info I missed that you feel needs to be here
    Last edited by Fivefingerdeathpunch; 10-18-2015 at 11:08 PM.
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  2. #2 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02BlueGT View Post
    The ishs are because some of the motors between 03 and 05 are series II/III hybrids
    For GPs, everything up to 03 are 100% Series II. 04+ is 100% Series III. It's other cars like Impala/Montes that still offered the "Series II" during 04 and 05 that you get the hybrids. Based off Series III engines (since Series III was being made at the time), but with some Series II components added on to keep them as a drop in component to Series II uses.
    2004 Impala LS - got some mods sold!!!
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  3. #3 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    Cool, I have been told that some 04 L26's don't have Moly pistons, and some 03 L36's have the powder forged rods, there isn't really a Big difference.... I didn't know what Car they came from though, so maybe they were from the other W-Bodys, I will edit my Info to show your data

    And I tried to not be GP specific, but that is where 90% of my knowledge lies
    Last edited by 02BlueGT; 11-05-2008 at 03:10 AM.
    2002 GT...CAI, Headers, Special Eddition two-tone leather interior added, HUD added, 12" Brake Upgrade, ZZP strut tower bars, gmpp sway bars, poly motor mounts, -6an braided SS fuel hoses , Hptuned, Headers, Top Swaped, 50lb inj, E85, 3.4
    I've got Boost!! Top swap Quesions? Click Here
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  4. #4 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02BlueGT View Post
    Cool, I have been told that some 04 L26's don't have Moly pistons, and some 03 L36's have the powder forged rods, there isn't really a Big difference.... I didn't know what Car they came from though, so maybe they were from the other W-Bodys, I will edit my Info to show your data

    And I tried to not be GP specific, but that is where 90% of my knowledge lies
    Since it's on a GP forum, might as well be GP specific.

    04 L26s did not have powdered rods. Lack of production capacity at the time meant the 04 L26 rods were the same as the L36 rods. So how could 03 L36 engines have them if they didn't even have any for the first year of the L26?

    The pistons you're right on that 04+ L36/L26 have them.
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  5. #5 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GT Level Member beastin1's Avatar
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    THIS WAS WRITTEN AND POSTED BY A BUDDY OF MINE ON MY OTHER SITE, FIGURED IT FIT IN WELL SO I'M POSTING IT HERE...HOPE IT HELPS...
    ************************************************** ********
    This manual should give someone a good idea on how to successfully do a top end swap on any 3800 Series II powered vehicle! (Buick/Chevy/Pontiac/etc)

    ***This swap intended for a swap retaining the L36 Harmonic Balancer. Although you can change it out, I did not. You cannot run anything smaller than a 3.25 SS pulley with the stock GT balancer***

    You will need:

    L67 Throttle Body
    L67 LIM
    L67 Heads
    L67 Fuel Rail
    L67 Injectors
    SS Pullies, standoff and idler
    M90 Supercharger
    Spark Plugs
    All new gaskets
    All new bolts
    Coil bracket
    Coolant
    3 inch downpipe
    Cold Air Intake system
    New O-Rings
    Custom Tune for a Top Swap


    **Basic hand tools and a torque wrench will be required for this swap. Alot of mechanical knowledge is not needed, but it sure does help. If yuo need any torque specs, let me know in this thread.**

    1 - You will want to plan at least a 3 day weekend to do the swap. So make space in your garage/cover/etc. DO NOT CHANGE OIL BEFORE SWAP! You will be out the cost of a new oil change in the end if you do.

    2 - Pull the fuel pump relay fuse, and start the car. It will die, releasing all fuel in the system for fuel rail removal. Start the car again to remove any more fuel. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and position it so it doesn't come in contact with the battery. Reinstall the fuel pump relay fuse.

    3 - Using a 15 MM socket on the idler pulley, remove the accessory belt. Place aside.

    4 - Jack up the car and place jack stands underneath the car then remove your downpipe, there are two bolts that are corroded and need to be broken loose. WD40 or a torch will break the bolts loose. They will probably break, but its okay, old rocker arm bolts can be used here. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor harness.

    5 - Go ahead and drain all of your coolant, I found that pulling off the lower radiator hose is easiest. Then lower the car and remove the jackstands. More coolant will pour out, so do not remove whatever you are using to catch the coolant.

    6 - Fuel removal is the next step. Disconnect the fuel line and fuel return. Gas will come out of these, so have a catch can or rag ready. Disconnect each fuel injector harness, and label them if you would like. Remove the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. The rail is held down to the LIM on 4 studs. Remove these nuts. The fuel rail should now lift out of the engine. Be careful, gasoline will still come out of the rail. Handle with extreme care.

    7 - Remove your existing air intake system, and the IAT sensor. Then, remove the brake booster hose that goes to the master cylinder. Disconnect the throttle cables and cruise cables, then disconnect the MAP, MAF, IAC, and TPS sensors and label them if you would like. Remove the support bracket on the throttle body and bend it out (not going to be used again.) Remove the throttle cable bracket and save it. We need to now remove the Upper intake manifold.

    8 - There are many bolts holding the UIM do the LIM. Be careful when removing, and use a cross pattern for removal to reduce stress on both the UI and LI manifolds. The intake manifold can now be removed. Expect coolant to flow out of the throttle body. Set aside.

    9 - Remove the alternator. Pull the positive supply and sensor plug from the alternator. Set aside. We can now access the heater core lines. Remove the core lines. Coolant will spill. Then remove the bracket, the core will hang from the plastic coolant elbows and will probably break, but if your careful, you can salvage it and save you a trip to the store for a new one. If it does break, try your closest GM dealership or a new one. Coolant will flow from the lower intake manifold. Place the bracket aside for now.

    10 - We can now continue on to the removal of the LIM. Remove the EGR flex tube from the LIM. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, catching any coolant that flows. Now carefully, remove all the studs holding the LIM to the block, and once again, remove in a cross pattern to reduce stress on the block. Some of the bolts will be covered in sludge and hard to see, but they are there, hidden. Grab the thermostat housing and lift up, this may take some force to break the LIM free from the block. Hold the LIM level to avoid spilling coolant down inside the engine. Place aside.

    11 - Removal of the exhaust manifolds is next. Remove all plug wires and set aside, label them if they are not already. Remove the left dogbone motor mount and ignition coil bracket and coil control module. We need to remove the rear manifold first, so that we can keep the front right dogbone motor mount in place for maximum clearance. Remove the rear valve cover and set aside. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor plug from the rear manifold and remove the EGR tube from the manifold as well. Remove the crossover pipe from the rear manifold as well. These bolts will require heat/oil to get loose, but will probably break in the long run. Old rocker arm bolts work well here. Remove all manifold studs at this time. Lifting the rear manifold out is a pain, so take your time and think it out. I found it best to bend the transmission dipstick tube out of the way a bit. Now, remove the upper right dogbone motor mount to remove the front manifold. Remove all studs and disconnect the front manifold from the crossover pipe. These bolts will more than likely break, but that's okay, old rocker arms bolts can be used here as well. Remove both the front exhaust manifold and the crossover pipe. You can either choose to keep the old metal gaskets or use new ones. Either way, both can be used or reused.

    12 - We need to remove the rocker arm's from the head assemblies. They are held down via rocker arm bolts. Remove these bolts and each rocker arm should lift out with ease. Remove the corresponding pushrod to each rocker arm and make sure to label them. Check the picture below for an idea on organizing the assemblies. Once all rocker arms are removed and labeled, the rocker arm pedestal can now be removed as well. Place aside. We now have access to all the head bolts on both heads.



    13 - Now for the removal of the heads! There is one stud on each head blocking one head bolt. Remove this stud. We can now access all head bolts. Each head has 8 bolts, remove them in the same order as the tightening sequence. These heads are VERY heavy and filled with coolant, so handle with extreme care. If you are unable to lift the head out and have access to an engine hoist, don't be afraid to use it. The rear head is a real pain! Place these heads aside and discard the old gaskets as they will never be used again. Soak up any coolant that entered the combustion chamber of the engine.

    14 - The swap is basically half way done, now a lot of prep work is necessary. Clean the heads however you would like, but the heads have to be in near perfect condition before reinstalling them. The heads should almost have a mirror like image to them. I found that using brake cleaner and a free hand razor blade is perfect for this. Just be EXTRA CAREFUL if you decide to use a razor on the heads, as one small scratch in the heads can and most likely will cause a head gasket leak. If you have another cleaning method, use it. Heads must be oil free before re installation. Use soap and water after the initial cleaning and dry with compressed air or a lint free cloth. I assure you, the more time you spend cleaning the heads, the better chance you have of not having a head gasket leak, which would be a very bad deal.

    15 - Just like previously, we need to clean and prep the block as best as possible. Once again, near perfection. I cannot stress enough the importance of clean mating surfaces!

    16 - *Prior to the rear head installation, you might want to position your rear manifold/header in place so it is alot easier to install. Just place it in the rear of the engine bay, I found this easy.*

    Go ahead and place your head gaskets on the block to ensure the right gasket, and a good fit. The arrow on the gasket should face the front of the motor, or towards, lets say, the alternator. Remove the gaskets and spray them both, on both sides of the gasket with copper spray, but do not spray too much or the spray will run and drip. We cannot install head gaskets that have sealant dripping on them. CAREFULLY, place the gaskets on the engine block, with the arrow facing the correct way. Now, go ahead and place one L67 head at a time on the block. If you place the head on the gasket and remove any spray, you MUST remove the gasket and respray it. This is very important, we do not want any head gasket leaks on first startup! Once you have both heads in place, go ahead and place in your new head bolts. You should coat all bolts with a decent amount of APR bolt lube from hear on out. The 4 short bolts go into the intake side (top) of the head and the 4 longer bolts go into the exhaust side (bottom) on the head. Tighten down to these specs and in this sequence.

    Cylinder Head Bolts - 50 N-m + 120° | or | 37 lb ft + 120°

    ===Intake===
    5 1 3 6 <---Shorter Bolts
    7 4 2 8 <---Longer Bolts
    ===Exhaust===



    17 - Double check everything once that is done. This step is one of the most vital of the entire swap. Once you are confident you did everything correctly, go ahead and position your old/new rocker arm pedestals onto the heads, your old/new pushrods into the motor and your old/new rocker arms onto the heads. You should be using new rocker arm bolts, as the old ones cannot be used.

    Torque to: 11 lb ft + 90° going from the inside towards the outside, every other bolt. In other words, just don't torque two bolts that are next to each other one after another.



    18 - Put some new spark plugs into the new heads. I recommend AL103's or AL104's, as they are cheap and help prevent knock. Gap around .052-.055'. Reinstall the EGR bracket and valve onto the rear head at this time.

    19 - Reinstall both exhaust manifolds/headers at this time now. Do the rear manifold first. Torque down to specs and make sure to reinstall the studs you had to take out to access the head bolts. Re-attatch the Oxygen sensor to the rear manifold, and connect the crossover pipe to the rear manifold at this time. Position and tighten down the front manifold to the head and the crossover pipe. Torque everything down to specs at this time. Old rocker arm bolts can now be used for the crossover pipe.

    20 - Install your new coil bracket to the front head using the old studs. Go ahead and put on the Ignition module, the extra idler and S/C belt tensioner. Install the ICM ground as well. Tighten everything down. Now, we can move on to installing the new LIM.

    21 - Prep the surface of the new LIM just as you would with the heads. Remove any build up on the surface, as well as the intake side. DO NOT forget to clean the intake side, it is easy to skip! Place your new LIM gasket onto the engine, use RTV anywhere you'd like to seal good. I found that placing a bit in each corner where the LIM gasket meets the lower block gaskets is useful and will help prevent boost/vacuum leaks. Now put your new LIM into place and torque to specs and using the proper sequence.



    22 - Go ahead and position your valve covers on at this time.

    Torque to: 89 in lbs.



    23 - Attach the EGR flex tube to the LIM. Now is the time to put in a thermostat. A 160* or a 180* is great here, up to you though. Knock will be against you after this swap, so choose carefully. Install the thermostat, gaskets and re-attach the upper radiator hose.

    23 - We can now start to put together the "boost half" of the engine. Go ahead and attach your old/new L67 or aftermarket (with adapters) throttle body to the supercharger. A new gasket should be used here, rubber preferably.

    *If you are doing an intercooled top swap, now would be the time to install the core*

    24 - Prep the bottom of the supercharger like you did the heads, and the LIM, near perfection. Clean up the LIM one last time before laying down new gaskets. Now, put new coolant O-Rings and the new S/C gasket onto the LIM. Place carefully. Use copper spray if you would like. Place the supercharger down carefully onto the new S/C gasket. You should use new supercharger bolts at this point. Torque to specs and sequence. Be very cautious here, I could not get my blower to torque properly without the blower binding for a while. After you torque each bolt, spin the blower to ensure a free spin, and no binding. After all the bolts are torqued and the blower is bind-free, you have torqued it properly and can move on.



    25 - Put new coolant elbows back on the water pump and the LIM without breaking them, it is a bit tricky. Slide the heater core elbow back into the plastic coolant elbows.

    26 - Reinstall your alternator. Connect the sensor plug and the power source wire.

    27 -Put on the extra idler pulley and mount.

    28 -Place your new L67/new aftermarket injectors into the heads with new o-rings. Gas leaks can occur due to a cracked o-ring. Place your new L67/new aftermarket fuel rail onto the injectors. Transfer the injector clips from the old rail onto the new one. Tighten down the rail to the 4 studs coming out of the LIM. Attach the fuel line and fuel return to the new rail. Re-attach all the injector harness plugs onto the marked injector.

    29 - Install the throttle cable bracket and throttle body and cruise lines onto the throttle body. We can now install the air intake system. This should be a cold air intake system, to help reduce knock. You can reinstall the factory system, but a CAI setup is ideal. At this time, attach the MAF, IAT, IAC and TPS sensors.

    30 - Run a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP. The fuel pressure regulator needs to see boost in order to operate correctly. Go ahead and attach the Boost Bypass Valve to the supercharger. It's held on with a bracket and two bolts. Run a vac line from the tree on the supercharger to the top nipple on the BBV. The bottom one needs to see ATMOSPHERE, because our L36 PCM's cannot control the BBV.

    31 - We can now put the exhaust back on. First, connect the HVAC, EVAP and Brake booster vacuum lines. For the exhaust, a 3 inch downpipe should be used to get the most out of your swap. You will need a new gasket for the manifold-downpipe and then downpipe - resonator. Transfer your oxygen sensor and hook it up to the harness.

    32 - Go ahead and fill up the car with coolant. Reconnect the lower radiator hose. 50/50 coolant/water mix is fine. Once all the coolant is bled, put coolant in the overflow tank.

    33 - Now is the post swap oil change to get rid of any coolant that may have spilled into the motor. Pretty straight forward.

    34 - Go ahead and put on an SS pulley from ZZP of your choice, according to mods you have now. I would start off with a large pulley so the motor can get used to boost. Then put on the accessory belt.

    35 - Fill the supercharger snout with specific GM supercharger, ZZP (etc.) oil.

    36 - Reconnect the negative cable back onto the battery and double check you put in the fuel pump relay fuse into the fusebox panel.

    Look over everything once again, making sure everything is connected properly. Now, start the car. It should run rough while the PCM is learning the new swap. Add coolant as needed and bleed the system. Drive the car carefully for the first 300-400 miles.

    Enjoy your new swap and feel free to show it off!




    Author - Marc M. Chandler
    Published - Marc M. Chandler (Sept. 11th, 2008)
    Copyright - All Rights Reserved

    2002 Galaxy Silver 4dr. GTP...supercharger heaven.
    IM ON IT!!!!!!
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  6. #6 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sabrewings View Post
    Since it's on a GP forum, might as well be GP specific.

    04 L26s did not have powdered rods. Lack of production capacity at the time meant the 04 L26 rods were the same as the L36 rods. So how could 03 L36 engines have them if they didn't even have any for the first year of the L26?

    The pistons you're right on that 04+ L36/L26 have them.
    Learn something new everyday, I'll edit the original post
    2002 GT...CAI, Headers, Special Eddition two-tone leather interior added, HUD added, 12" Brake Upgrade, ZZP strut tower bars, gmpp sway bars, poly motor mounts, -6an braided SS fuel hoses , Hptuned, Headers, Top Swaped, 50lb inj, E85, 3.4
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  7. #7 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Just trying to help.
    2004 Impala LS - got some mods sold!!!
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  8. #8 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    Your doin a good job
    2002 GT...CAI, Headers, Special Eddition two-tone leather interior added, HUD added, 12" Brake Upgrade, ZZP strut tower bars, gmpp sway bars, poly motor mounts, -6an braided SS fuel hoses , Hptuned, Headers, Top Swaped, 50lb inj, E85, 3.4
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  9. #9 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    Donating Users crshoveride's Avatar
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    this def. deserves a sticky
    1998 Grand Prix GTP Stock for now mods to come soon. Alpine 9885 head unit, 2 JLW3V2 10s, 2 Jensen 650x2 amps, and Tsunami wiring all the way around.
    Ladies and gentleman take my advice. pull down your pants and slide on the ice
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  10. #10 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    Edited to make it easier to read, also added the install instructions, I had to Delete the Parts list from those instructions cause I exceeded the maximum post length (25000 Characters!!!!)
    2002 GT...CAI, Headers, Special Eddition two-tone leather interior added, HUD added, 12" Brake Upgrade, ZZP strut tower bars, gmpp sway bars, poly motor mounts, -6an braided SS fuel hoses , Hptuned, Headers, Top Swaped, 50lb inj, E85, 3.4
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  11. #11 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
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    will a 96 bonneville 3800 series II fit in my 98 grand prix gtp and what will be different will i have to change to put the supercharger on it. is the pcm and the transmission the same?
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  12. #12 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    SE Level Member comongoose's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if the L26 and L67 have same accessories or not? If not which are need to be put on from which motor, If I am putting an L67 top on a L26 bottom. Also do I use the pushrods and lifters form the L26 or L67?
    -1999 GTP...Work in Progress! L26 bottom end, K&N HAI, ZZP MPS 3.5" pulley, headers, custom intake, 180 therm., 1.9 rockers
    -1996 Acura TL
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  13. #13 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Accessories are the same. Pushrods and lifters are the same.
    2004 Impala LS - got some mods sold!!!
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  14. #14 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    SE Level Member comongoose's Avatar
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    Thanks Sabrewings, that will save me some money..lol.
    -1999 GTP...Work in Progress! L26 bottom end, K&N HAI, ZZP MPS 3.5" pulley, headers, custom intake, 180 therm., 1.9 rockers
    -1996 Acura TL
    -1995 Trans Am...SOM beast...RIP.
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  15. #15 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    The alternator is different, it mounts the same, but the series III motors have a alt. with a clutch... all other acc. are the same, the blocks are the exact same.... most of them say series II on em anyways
    2002 GT...CAI, Headers, Special Eddition two-tone leather interior added, HUD added, 12" Brake Upgrade, ZZP strut tower bars, gmpp sway bars, poly motor mounts, -6an braided SS fuel hoses , Hptuned, Headers, Top Swaped, 50lb inj, E85, 3.4
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  16. #16 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02BlueGT View Post
    The alternator is different, it mounts the same, but the series III motors have a alt. with a clutch... all other acc. are the same, the blocks are the exact same.... most of them say series II on em anyways
    My block says Series III, but I have a Series II motor. More of that hybrid mess.
    2004 Impala LS - got some mods sold!!!
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  17. #17 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GTX Level Member 02BlueGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sabrewings View Post
    My block says Series III, but I have a Series II motor. More of that hybrid mess.
    2002 GT...CAI, Headers, Special Eddition two-tone leather interior added, HUD added, 12" Brake Upgrade, ZZP strut tower bars, gmpp sway bars, poly motor mounts, -6an braided SS fuel hoses , Hptuned, Headers, Top Swaped, 50lb inj, E85, 3.4
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  18. #18 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    SE Level Member WindsorGP's Avatar
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    Would you have to change cams at all or leave the stock one in also what about the tranny's. I've read a few post and I don't think nobody really ask these questions. I'm going to be in the process of a swap in the next few months and would really like to know now before I find out that I should have done these then instead later on when somthing blows in my face and feel like idiot.
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  19. #19 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WindsorGP View Post
    Would you have to change cams at all or leave the stock one in
    Cams are the same.

    Quote Originally Posted by WindsorGP View Post
    also what about the tranny's.
    That's a loaded question. The non-HD tranny is just as strong as the HD tranny except for the differential. So if you keep from a lot of hard launches and burnouts it should be fine. Well, as fine as the stock tranny will be anyway. I'd recommend a shift kit to speed up the shifts and keep your clutches from overheating.
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  20. #20 Re: Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info 
    SE Level Member comongoose's Avatar
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    nice avatar Windsor, that GTO was my background on my comp. for the longest time. It was my dream car for a while. I didn't realize it before I had my GP but now I look at it the air dam kinda looks like the SD one for our cars.
    -1999 GTP...Work in Progress! L26 bottom end, K&N HAI, ZZP MPS 3.5" pulley, headers, custom intake, 180 therm., 1.9 rockers
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